The magnetic pick up leads can fatigue and cause an intermittent open condition. I had an HEI that occasionally would not fire, and the magnetic pick up was the last thing I replaced. Drove me nuts.
if they converted and used the points resistance wire instead of a new wire it will do this. This video of mine explains it.
Yes sir, it came with a pack for it. I used the whole pack, set then reset it in place to ensure all of the bare metal is covered.
Can you explain to me what those wires are? I’m not familiar with that term. I replaced connectors and wires and don’t mind replacing more lol
Thank you. I have a few spools of wire and will need to re-run all of it. Maybe that’ll do the trick as well.
yeah it recommends 14 gauge but i did 16 and the car has ran fine. Also I aint gonna be mad if you subscribe just saying lol.
This is the pick up coil. Those 2 lead that hook to the module flex with the vacuum advance. They can develop an intermittent loss of continuity. To replace it, the gear has to come off and the distributor shaft has to come out.
I think I’m gonna pick up a whole new distributor. Lol. I’m done with buying all these parts separately. The module itself cost me 60 bucks twice. A new hei distributor costs anywhere from 50-180 bucks. At this point if i replace it all, I’ll know it’s none of that lol
That one i bought has been pretty flawless was around a hundred dollars. Not saying they are all that way but im pleased with mine.
Thats what I did it was going to cost more to go through that other one than it was worth. I still have it but it def needs a rebuild.
Definitely get rid of the resistor wire. How to by-pass resistor wire (HEI upgrade) | Team Chevelle (chevelles.com)
Larry is absolutely killing it for me. Thank you. So i definitely have that bypass already in. I immediately recognized that connector that’s shown in that thread. I cut that end connector off as it was very loose and put in a thicker gauge and changed the connector to a dual style connector to accommodate the tach i put in. someone on here mentioned that it could be a shot coil if it’s when the motor gets to temp and it dies out. Only to turn back on after cooling off. That is 100% what’s going on. Can someone tell me which setting i should have my voltmeter set at to test the coil itself? Or that wouldn’t show because it’s directly from heat?
i actually have a complete crt performance one from off ebay and its been pretty rock solid. May change in future.
