BBB Build any insite

I wold love to complete with a roller cam to dam expensive But if I did hyd or solid who else other than TA makes one I know morel makes the hyd lifters I have been told it would be a strain on the lifter gallery

 

Any cam grinder that can get the roller cores can make you a roller cam.
Jim Weise had Comp grind a few rollers.

 

my builder has a relationship with comp he is going to check for me Morell makes the lifters for a 455 will they work with a milder cam as you sugjested with out a girdle ?
Any # lift , duration , L/S that might work i have the 413 in my car now love it a roller along that grind would be less agressive correct?
checking the Edelbrock heads have a sprin seat psi of 132 and 312 lbs

 

cool thread

 

Looks like this one fell through the cracks....

If you go back to reply #13 in this thread, and look at the photos of the connecting rods, you will notice that the bottom of the cap has no dedicated balance pad to grind on, and it also has a taper in it that further reduces that amount of material down there. So it's best not to grind away additional material from the underside of the BBB caps in an attempt to balance the set of rods. My friend's brand "X" street engine always had rods balanced to within 1/2 a gram on the big end. My Buick rods where always balance by the total weight of the rod, and never seemed to matter in my street engines; they held up just fine.

Also, checkout the following link:

http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?217775-balancing-455-connecting-rods

You'll see a photo (in post #11) of what the cap looks like when you grind on it.

Tommy

 

i missed the lift on the roller cam ? What type of spring pressure for a roller cam , would I have to change springs, I am building this on a budget as you can see its taken me years to get this far , Now thigs are getting Expensive , from my reading i should have the New heads gone through by finishline with some port work $$ Have no idea of exact cost for thet , then the cost of the cam and liffters roller I am leanning twards at this point mey be a year or 2 of saving pennies to do as Larry you have changed my corse a bitt I realy like the HyD roller cam , no brakein , no more worne lifters or cam lobes and with roller rockers now a full roller motor I LIKE IT, Istill need to get more info and try to budget all this ,

 

got my New Edelbrock Heads today look real nice except i see why the need to be ported , Man CNC port match what a joke they machine the port at the outter most point aprox 1/4" just to match there gaskets .
And the rest of the casting inside is very rough .
Got my roller rockers to ultra pro comps very nic but the Valve covers wont clear ,: mad:

 

Thanks Guys got to slow my self down and pace this want ever so right cant afford any wrong missmatched components ( BREATH )

 

[Ok my builder recomend this cam hydrolic cam
224/236. @50 497/506 LS 113 installed at 108-109
Any thoughts

 

Depends on what you are looking for.

This cam will make power from about 2300 rpm and will pull nicely to 5500 rpm
A 2400 stall converter would work well with it.

With 4 degrees of overlap the idle will be a little lopey and the gas mileage should be reasonable.

The advertised intake duration is probably around 280* which puts the DCR at 7.8:1 if your static compression ratio is 10.2.
Will need to use 91 to 93 octane gas.

The .500 lift numbers are ok for longevity if you are going to put a lot of street miles on a flat tappet cam.

The Edelbrock heads are good for .550 lift especially with a little port work if you need more power but I would prefer to do that with a roller cam.

It would be great if some one here would do a simulation to check it out.

Just my 2 cents

Paul

 

Paul I Realy apreciate your imput I would love to go roller just not in the budget , i have the heads and started to do my own clean up and polish not going to town just smooth out the floor and and runners evenly removing the casting bumps and ridges make smooth and a polish .
I beleive this is going to be a good cam doing some research with other brand cams with similar grind, Should give me a good power range with the little head work . well alot very time consumming . witch intake would you recomend i hve both the TA sp1 and a Performer ?

 

The Performer helps produce torque below 3000 rpm and the SP1 comes into play above 3500 rpm.

Here's my thinking. You want a manifold that enhances the job you are trying to do.

Since you have a set of Edelbrock heads that you are porting and the cam will produce a strong midrange between 3000 and 5000 rpm
it makes sense to use the SP1 to further support that power range.
Besides, the BBB has plenty of low end torque to spare.

Paul

 

No matter how much u polish and grind a stock connecting rod, Its still A stock connecting rod. I would invest in some sportsman rods and spherical dish pistons from TA and well that is what I have done. Total seal piston rings too. Main studs, Ta stg 2 big valve heads, Track eliminator, SP2 intake, shorty headers with 3 in exhaust, If anybody knows ware to get merge collectors , headers with merge collectors that would be my preference. Use a 4mv rochester 71, 72 with the big vent up front are nice, Most pontiac 455 with roch carb are great doners, Im going roller cam, Get a new Ta Timing cover and boost plate. Get a SFI flex plate, stock ones WILL crack. Either have spare balancers or invest in a better one. Electric fans, if u dont want to over heat in traffic, I use stock camaro ones without the shroud, the blades are connected , dual fans . I use a slim motorcycle electric fan for my trans cooler, Dont use your radiator.. And of course either a 700r4 or 2004r
I cruise at 2000 rpm doing 75 with my 700 and 3.07 rear end.

I BROKE my stock connecting rod , and destroyed my old block . and I was about 4000 rpm in 3 rd gear pulling hard, What im saying is your rotating assembly is the most important part. Your only strong as your weakest link. I read up above some saying main bolts are better than studs, but head studs are better than bolts. If you want your main bolts to be your weakest link, OK... ITs only 165 bucks for the main studs.

 

WTF I need to read the thread start date. I guess if your still around ... Well how did it go?

 

Well it was a venture to get some Ideas for different combos . I think Stock rods are good for 5500-6500 rpm ( Agree with you on the rods if i was to be pulling a constent 6000+ rpm ) this is a budget build ) that wont happen much . pristine set up timming cover all engine oill mods , Diamond pistons ,stock rods , Machine work almost complete line bore 30 over , square dek block,crank cleneded up 10/10 clearences
.025 mains and rods . edelbrock heads porting them , comp 1. 6 ultra pro roller rockers Hays SFI flexplate , Romac SFI balancer . arp main bolts and head bolts good mid level cam will ive good upper low to mid raange and greatmid to upper range with a SP1 intake Mostly street driven some track time rarely ,
Trans will be next 400sp now OD down the road
Again wish i could go roller all the way if i could afford that would do something different with the rods , and probably have Jim W build me a 470 but keeping this complete build with in budget buy getting deals on some parts over time and have afriend that builds performance Motors wanting to help me and doing sas much as i can myself this motor complete $ under 5500 complete combo should yeld a very good motor for my needs , Getting close Ots only what 3 years in the planning and build , not bad took me 8 to do the frame off resto on the car, just freshened up that motor with 70 stage 1 heads and a 413 cam. TA heavy duty rocker shafts and rockers adjustable pushrods Performer intake i frequintly take that motor to 5000-5500 she has held together for 6 years

 

snuks i did similar allways ran hot 190 -210 to hot for me 2 row aluminum rad hardly ever sees 180 in Florida heat with a/c
got a little off track here