blower or relay?

so for the past week and a half my car has been in and out of the shop because of the ac. the system works fine for all of ten minutes and then something else goes wrong, this time its the blower or relay, it would only work on max ac and then it went completely and the blower doesn't turn on, but it does sound like the ac is engaging. if it was the relay would the ac still engage?

 

If the a/c was working intermittantly, do you have a short in the wiring harness? You can check the blower resistor too - I just replaced mine (the old one was fried). According to the wiring diagram for my '68 power for the fan goes through the blower resistor on all settings (low, med, high, max). After replacing the resistor, including a new pigtail connector, and testing for current, there was power at the connector just before the fan power wire goes inside the fan housing. I may have a bad ground on the fan, but I'm just going to replace the whole thing since it's 40+ years old. On my car, the compressor operates on a different circuit so it would engage when the a/c was turned on even though the fan didn't work.

 

ok so i checked all of the connections on he resistor and low med and max work but not high, still working on that. but it was running great nice and cold, when it got really humid and i shut it off, and checked looked under the hood, the poa valve had quite a bit of frost like it was freezing up, i only knew to check that because the shop that put it in said the originl one i had kept freezing up. these have to be adjusted right? and if so can i adjust it myself without letting the pressure out?

 

Blower or relay?
You pulled the fan speed resistor and it's OK - the relay is on the firewall and it seems to be OK too from what I am hearing. I have been chasing similar problems with my AC system too - low speed on my fan does not work. The AC works when the fan is switched to med & or high but the compressor disengages when the fan is switched to low or max. Go figure....:idea2: After having had the dash apart 2 or 3 times I have come to the conclusion that I am a good candidate for a new dash wiring harness (you probably are too) - my dash wires are very old - some have melted insulation, some have been bubba'd and so on. The dash wiring harness is rather pricey though, I have seen prices from the low $400 range up to $600.

 

I'm not sure if your Skylark has this...is there a heavy gage red wire off the alternator heading back towards the firewall with a connector in the middle? If it does...Pull the connector apart. You might find it blackened and not making the connection. Good luck.