Body/paint cliff notes

White should be easy to paint with any type of paint. Single stage urethane would be fine. Lacquer would work too, just not as durable. Either can be easily touched up if you need to redo a repair.
You do want to get the body lines right since white will make any defects very visible.

 

Thanks, Walt! Out of curiosity, I wonder: Which color makes defects least visible?

 

Maybe a mod can stickey this everyone??

 

What are the current thoughts on removing existing paint?? Is some type of media blasting the best option?

 

Depends on your situation....
Does it have several paint jobs? Lots of Bondo? Rusty? Is it completely disassembled? Do you want to strip the underside and/or the interior?
Media blasting is nice but also expensive. Ideal if you're doing a frame -off and want to clean everything.
I still use chem stripper followed by DA sanding with 80 grit for exterior panels. I'll blast interiors and underbody if I'm doing a complete resto.
Some guys just use a razor blade to scrape the original lacquer paint off.

The method you choose depends on the condition of the car and what your goals are.

 

Agree,...if paint is real thick I go after with a razor blade first

Bottoms of Hoods and decklids get stripped chemically and with a 3M burr disc,..DONT BLAST THE BOTTOM OF HOODS OR DECKLIDS!!,...UNLESS,...you put thick cardboard over the cutout areas. If you don't and blast it to hard you will see the outline of those areas on the top side,..not good. On these rusty Hoods it's gotta be done sometimes but do it carefully

Door jambs,...rear body pans,...glass channels,..fender jambs,..firewall,...etc blast if possible

Blasting is obviously the fastest and best pre paint method but also the worst to clean up

But you can blow it off,..spray it down with alcohol then go straight to epoxy and start building it back up,..no sanding which is always a great day! Ha,...this provided a EXTRA FINE sand was used,...I see way to many guys get stuff blasted thinking they are saving time and they blast it with gravel and profile the metal so deep it requires much more work and can actually trash the panel.

Most blasters use heavy sand because they are either doing headstone work or blast big cast parts and truck/heavy equipment or machinery type objects

So REQUEST they use Fine or Extra fine!!!

I still strip the outside of panels with my hog sander and 36/40 grit,..90% of the time,..knock out small dents as I can and cut the metal down with the hog,..then DA with 80

 

Hugger.
Weird Question.
I'm I going to cut the trans and drive shaft tunnel in the 62 Skylark. I have access to a slip roller.
To make a templet I want to use card board then form the steel to match. What is the type of cardboard/construction paper you guys use for mock up? Corrugated is to ridged.

 

You would better off imo to just buy a tunnel and trim it fit,..much easier

But to plot your contours don't use cardboard use coat hanger or copper/aluminum wire

Make a few along the length and then form to match

 

Would be a good start for cheap,..I myself prefer flat tunnels,..easier and more attractive imo

 

Hugger like this. Just use a sheet metal brake?

 

That's all I would do

 

What's the thought about sending out loose sheet metal (hood, doors, fenders, deck lid) for dipping, stripping and e-coat? I could even do the body but not necessary.

 

Best thing possible

 

Funny I have been kicking the idea around a lot.
Leave it in raw aluminum with bead rolls exposed and pop rivets. Spray sound deader on the underside and run carpet to the aluminum tunnel.

 

Would look awesome,...dimple die some panelalong the side or top then rivet them on to give it some depth,..then incorporate that look on the dash or door panels to bring it together

 

Reading my mind. lol

 

I may make the vertical pieces 90 degree bends (not splayed out like the picture indicates) or even run angle iron on the edge for a contrast.

 

Be a he'll of a starting point