I have a set of 70 heads that were converted to Stage 1's over 20yrs ago. While in the prosses of refreshing and some upgrades to my motor I discovered the bronze guides are worn.I watched a few videos videos and it seems like a pretty straight forward process. I am considering doing them myself and wondering if anyone has done them any advice/tips would be appreciated. Chris
Are you meaning the inserts??? The basiclly just drive in and out. Then you run a broch through to size then for clearance.
It's best to have a shop replace them some have to be sized after and recut the valve seat also. There's no way of knowing if they are still on center with the seat.
I will say some do at minimum take the special tools to insert them. And reem b4 install. Then they often need trimmed down after to get the final heath correct
Dick with the guides, you'll need to kiss the seats to assure concentricity. Almost no-one is set up in a home-hobby-shop to deal with valve guides. OTOH, last night I was watching Youtube videos of guys in funny clothing sitting on a dirt floor welding broken crankshafts back together, and finishing the journals on a lathe. Or, fixing cracked Diesel cylinder heads. So compared to that, valve guides should be a breeze.
...with a seven-year-old for ballast, riding it like a skateboard so it grinds-down quicker. I have noticed that they never show the engine running with the "repaired" parts installed.
If your worn replacement guides are 1/2” OD and not just .030” wall guide liners then you can drive the old ones out from the valve bowl side easy enough, but to drive new ones in you need a special punch that does not Mushroom over the valve seal end of the guide. The cost of just this punch means there is no savings to you doing any of this work at home, even driving out the old guides. a shop with the needed air hammer gun and punch will drive out all used 16 guides in two minutes as compared to 1/2 hour for you at home. and as posted any time a guide(s) is replace the valve job will need to be touched up, and if your heads have already had a valve job done to them hopefully this touch up to get consentricity back is just a minor one!
They are the .500 guides. I have air hammer and compressor (equipment mechanic by trade).I have multiple sets of heads that I can do so the tooling wouldnt be a one time use thing.Goodson Tool has all the tools necessary to do the job either individually or as kits as well as good videos on youtube.Once I get the guides in I will lap the valves and determine from there if its gonna need a valve job or not. or vise versa.Thanks for the input. Chris
It’s odd that those guides wore out on you! How many miles are on them? Such ware leads me to think that your valves have little to none of the needed chrome plating On there stems.
I couldn't even begin to tell you mileage speedo was way off due to gear change back in the day.That will be corrected once new motor goes back in.I wild guess would be 50k. I took them about 6 months ago to the the machine shop that did the block work to have the chambers cc'd and spring pressure checked to see if they would work with new cam choice and figure out compression ratio.He showed me that they had wear put I dont remember how far out he had the valve and if that makes a difference. Chris
Had one on a 430 head that wore slap out under 25000 miles. Started with a light tick and within a couple hundred miles that joker was hammering. It was Ex valve so was blowing massive. compression by. Made a youtube vid showing the play.
I’m On the fence with the same issue, but realize I don’t have the tools or experience to do it properly, it’s Uber expensive now to have machine work done, but better to have it done professionally
