Guy's, Like many others I am finding out I am looking for camshaft bearings for a 300. Everyone it seams is out of stock or on backorder or have direct from supplier with a Jan and beyond estimated ship date. I thought maybe someone might have a set of these out there somewhere. I am looking for; Durabond B-11 Clevite SH-1360S Sealed Power 1421M Seems to be the three manufactures that keep popping up. We are dead in the water on my rebuild until I fine a set of these. Thought I'd give it a shot. Thanks in advance!
Someone correct my math, but I am pretty sure the 4.6 Rover bearings interechange with the 215/300/340 Buick. If so, in stock. https://www.roverparts.com/engine/camshafts-rocker-arms/STC1961F/ Shop like Ronnie Regan. Trust, but verify...
Hey Trunk Monkey, It's been awhile, how are you doing? Going through an engine rebuild and these bearings are very hard to find. I'll check that out from Rover Parts. Had water getting in the oil, turns out it was the heads. Corrosion through the sealed water jackets that are blocked off. Having those welded and resurfaced and going through a complete rebuild.
Checked the B-11 Bearings from Egge as they said that they had them. Ordered a set then got a call they were not available and didn't know when they would come in. So another dead-end. Not the first time this has happened. I've had three other suppliers say they have them then find out they don't. Still on the hunt. Thanks for the help.
Doing good, Steve. Thanks. Hope to see you at CTC 2023 or sooner. I need to see if my little brother is racing up around MOKAN next month. If so, I'll give you a shout!
TA didn't have them? One issue I've found with the cam bearings in these engines (300 and 340) is that unless you have the shop check and possibly resize the bores they can end up being too tight. This can be remedied two ways, either by having the shop align hone the cam bearing bores to the right specs, or by reaming the cam bearings themselves after install. A reamer can be made out of an old cam by making an angle cut in the cam's bearing journals with an angle grinder and a zip blade but you have to use a LOT of oil during the reaming process to get a smooth finish. Jim
I just find where it's tight & normally I use a Red Scotch Brite pad in just the area that needs to be sized. IF you "Ream" it it usually will take off too much material & usually end up with low hot idle oil pressure. Just my thoughts. Tom T.
I had the rear cam bearing too to tight on two engine builds. On the last engine, an old machinist popped the rear plug out and hand scraped the rear bearing with a pocket knife.
Checked the website and the "fits vehicle" drop down box say's it's not compatible. Took a shot and sent a message on their chat box, no replies yet.
Actually hand scraping is a precision operation, that's how surface plates are made. I hand scraped an 18" X 18" surface plate during my machinist training, took me 6 weeks. A hand scraped surface is flatter than a surface ground surface.
Yes, my dad was a journeyman Tool & Die Machinist all of his career and did some amazing things. He worked on the heat shield for the Mercury space capsule. Finished his career at Chrysler waiting for one of the robots to break down so he could fix it or make a part to fix it. I inherited his tools many of which were special made for a specific job or purpose.
Guy's thanks for all of the help. I just got a message from Rock Auto that the 1421M Sealed Power brand of bearings for my 300 build are in stock now. I have ordered and paid so we will see what happens. Been through this before, hopefully this is true. Thanks for all of the help and comments.
Having personally resolved the cam bearing clearance issue all three ways, my order of preference is: 1) have the bores resized during the machining phase, that way there are no issues now or in the future; 2) Use an old cam and modify it to ream the bearings, done correctly this gives very tight clearances and a smooth finish. All 5 bearings get reamed at the same time but it does insure alignment will be straight; 3) Hand scraping IF it's only the front or rear bearings. Getting into the center ones to scrape them is a right chore and I don't recommend it. Jim
Before reaming or scraping bearings... if cam binds, check cam straightness and runout on V- blocks with a .0001 indicator. Even before it ever gets installed.
