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Buick 455 Oiling Mods

Discussion in 'Wrenchin' Secrets' started by 71GS455N25, May 20, 2014.

  1. 71GS455N25

    71GS455N25 Silver Level contributor

    aux_line1.jpg aux_line2.jpg aux_line3.jpg Has anyone done any oiling mods to the rear oil passages on a BBB like this? :Do No:

    I am considering it but, was curious as to if it makes a difference and what the advantages are. It doesn't seem to take much money to do this type of modification. Any input is appriciated. :TU:
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 20, 2014
    71GS455N25, May 20, 2014
    #1
  2. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    The last pic of the copper pipe in a "U" shape is/was for oil transfer to the left (drivers side) lifters. Pretty much old school.
    TA's back grooved cam bearings makes that mod obsolete.
    Use the back grooved cam bearings and forget about the "lifter galley bypass" More prone to leaks:eek2:
     
    Mark Demko, May 20, 2014
    #2
  3. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    A few of those pictures are of a balance line. I have one on my current TSP built roller engine.
     

    Attached Files:

    LARRY70GS, May 20, 2014
    #3
  4. 71GS455N25

    71GS455N25 Silver Level contributor

    Larry,

    How does the balance line work? What are the advantages?
     
    71GS455N25, May 20, 2014
    #4
  5. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise EFI/DIS 482

    It simply balances the pressure front to rear, and insures a flow of oil to the rods in the back of the motor at all times.

    Good insurance.

    JW
     
    Jim Weise, May 20, 2014
    #5
  6. 71GS455N25

    71GS455N25 Silver Level contributor

    looks easy enough to install. thanks
     
    71GS455N25, May 21, 2014
    #6
  7. 71GS455N25

    71GS455N25 Silver Level contributor

    I have decided to install a oil mod like this one. The kit from Automotive machine & performance is $85.95 + shipping. Does anyone know if I can build one for less than that? Or should I just pay for what they have already put together? :Do No:

    Thanks,
     

    Attached Files:

    71GS455N25, May 23, 2014
    #7
  8. online170

    online170 Well-Known Member

    I tried, and you cant. I spent about $145 piecing together the fittings (not including shipping, hassle, some didn't fit, etc...). I used preassembled hose with AN fitting on it already. Some would argue that its cheaper to crimp and assemble the fittings yourself, but if you have no tools or line kicking around, you will need to buy a minimum length and the tools. You can also try pricing it out with a shop, but I bet their labor wont be cheap.


    You should be able to do it cheaper if you used hardline and brake fittings.


    At $90 plus shipping for a tried and tested guaranteed fit, I would take it and run!
     
    online170, May 23, 2014
    #8
  9. 71GS455N25

    71GS455N25 Silver Level contributor

    That was kinda my thoughts on it but, I wanted some feedback from other BBB owners. Sometimes you just are better off with buying a pre-assembled tested and fitted product.

    :TU:Thanks for your feedback.
     
    71GS455N25, May 23, 2014
    #9
  10. 71GS455N25

    71GS455N25 Silver Level contributor

    I called Automotive machine & performance to order their oil pressure balance line kit and was told that if my motor was already built that they don't have a 90 degree elbow fitting that will clear the flywheel or flexplate because the rear passage threads needed to be tapped further into the block for clearance. Has anyone else found away around this?:Do No:
     
    71GS455N25, May 23, 2014
    #10
  11. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    LARRY70GS, May 23, 2014
    #11
  12. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise EFI/DIS 482

    Ya, no way around that.. you do have to tap the rear threads deeper.

    You could do it... cut down a rag and push it into the rear of the galley.. Do not use a paper towel, you have to be sure you get all of it out later..

    Then dip the tap in wheel bearing grease.. that will collect the shavings as you tap.. clean it regularly and be patient with it, your going to be at it for a while.

    After you clean up any material that may remain after tapping, fish down in there and pull the rag out.. anything left will be swept out of the galley by the rag.

    Use virgin mineral spirits in a pressurize spray container, and compressed air liberally thruout the process to keep the debris out of the engine.

    I believe that the AMP Kit requires that you run a mini starter, because of the line routing.. check with them on that.

    JW
     
    Jim Weise, May 23, 2014
    #12

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