I have a 1971 Buick GS that has the steering wheel mounting stud stripped. It needs to be replaced. How do I remove this stud? Does the steering column have to be removed from the car first?
That ain't a stud. It's a shaft that continues all the way to the flexible coupling at the steering gear box. Maybe you can find someone to grind it to a smaller diameter and rethread it in place? Otherwise you'll have to remove the whole thing. My recommendation would be to remove it whole (disconnect the wires, etc., first) and take it to the machine shop. You really don't want to pull the shaft out of the mast jacket. Optionally, you could drill and tap for a 1/4-20 or 5/16-18 bolt in the center of the shaft. Just be sure to diaper the area to keep chips out of the works. That would require some washers and so forth to clamp the steering wheel on. Also, when you remove the wheel in the future, you'll have to protect the threaded hole from damage.
If it were mine I'd replace the column. There are several members here parting out some of those cars, just post in the 'Parts Wanted" section.
If it's a tilt wheel,you are better off getting someone who has the proper tools to do the job. I have converted several standard column shift columns to floor column and never had any luck doing the tilt ones. Like Bill said,it will be cheaper to replace the column and a whole lot easier than tackle this.Alot of the column will have to be taken apart as well as removed from the car. Dave's offer is a good offer above..
Gently with the drill and especially the tap...or you'll be buying the whole magilla anyway. If you do this, make sure the head of the bolt is below the steering wheel when you're done. Put a gob of clay on the stud and put the wheel back on. Then pull the wheel off and look at how thick the mashed clay is. That'll tell you how much room you have for the bolt head. You'll need to stack washers on either side of the stripped threads, up to the washer on the bolt you tapped for, in order to hold the wheel. Worst that happens is you buy another column. NOTE: if it's only the first thread or so that's stripped, you can go at them with a small triangular file to clean them up. I've also done that, but it takes finesse. Hope this helps.
I think putting a 1/4" or 5/16' bolt in the center is a very bad idea when the factory designed the column to use a 1/2" to 5/8" nut (correct me if I am wrong since I do not have a steering column in front of me at this time). How much do you value your car, your life or someone elses life? Ken
If your dealing with factory shaft, wheel etc, I would go with new shaft. I personally drilled cross-wise and pinned mine with a hardened roll pin, but I have a GT Grant racing wheel, and a little more room to work if I feel any movement, and need to re-do, or replace the whole unit.
kenbuick, how much pulling-up force do you think he's going to give the wheel? That's the only failure mode, and it usually requires mechanical advantage in the form of a puller to get the steering wheel off. Any concerns, just use red Loctite #420 on the spline, and it'll NEVER come off again, without heat applied.
Why not just repair it correctly and replace the column or the steering shaft? Steering components are not an area where I would take a shortcut, no matter how good Loctite products are. It is not worth the risk. Ken
I perceive that risk as quite low with a proper repair. YMMV. I'd do that if I boogered mine up. I did booger one up once, but dressing the threads with a file saved it.
If it is a tilt column, I have a bunch of upper shafts...just swap it out and you will be set. The upper threads are 9/16-18
