Build thread: Psalm 65

The yellow dot is a windage tray. I wouldn't recommend or even think about starting that engine with that oil in it. What cam do you plan on using? because doing a break in requires good, if not great, oil.

That rubbery smell might also mimic that of gasoline, but I honestly couldn't say for sure if you hadn't had it running before.

 

Ok windage tray, thanks.
Yeah this oil wont be used, still dont know what cam to use, or even if this its OG cam or an aftermarket cam, its going to take some digging but i think i can get ahold of the man who sold it to me. It was his sons, who was into engine building. He ditched the 430 for an ls7.

 

Anybody know what type of oil pan i should be using for the swap? Rear,center or front sump?

 

Im guessing this had the 1/2 inch oil pick up tube, Im going to get a 1972 or later 455 5/8 inch tube right? To upgrade oil flow

 

Wow, how many times did you have to drop it to make that pan look that way?

Yes, get the bigger 5/8 oil pick up tube. Most guys also drill out the passage to 5/8

 

Just one good time. Okay thanks for the information on the tube and the passage.

 

That's a lot of sludge/metal in that pan, Ronnie. That one is going to warrant a full tear down if you weren't planning on it already.

 

I noticed it looked worse in the picture. What warrents a full tear down. Because i was planning on going down to the timing cover and getting that up to par, and that's about it with new oil,rebuild the carb, new head and miscellaneous gaskets, all that fun stuff....

Are you telling me I might be going to the machine shop?

And I know im getting a head of myself because i havent even gave it a compression test. Going off that whole "it ran" story.

 

If there is metal in the oil, either silver metal but especially brass /copper/gold colored, to the point it looks like metallic car paint it needs to be torn down for sure. That brass color is the color of your main, rod, and cam bearings, and if that is in your oil you have at least one bad bearing. Shiny silver metal could be many things: pistons, rings, timing chain, cam lobes, lifters, and on and on. So, no matter what your compression test says, if that oil pan looks as silvery shiny as it does in that pic, it needs to be torn down. You should at least pull a couple rods and mains to check the bearings. It's 4 bolts and 4 nuts, and you're right there. It'll take you 5 minutes to cover your a$$.

 

Those who have put a 400/430/455 in a 64/65 A body, what oil pan configuration is needed to make the fit successful?

 

You need a rear sump oil pan that a A-body GS Skylark with a 400 or 455 would of used, seeing how you want to put that 430 in you '65 A-body Skylark. You will need '67 GS 400 Skylark frame pads and motor mounts to bolt it in.

Can either buy the frame pads from TA or post a parts wanted ad here and new mounts I believe are still be available from parts stores?

 

Thanks Derek. I appreciate your help as always.

 

Had to correct post # 32, its a '67 Skylark GS 400, not 455, same engine dimensional architecture though with just a different bore size and a very slight deck height difference. Timing chain/ oil pump cover and oil pan are interchangeable though.

You will need the rear sump oil pickup for the rear sump pan as well.

 

Still pretty

 

Someone please recomend me the correct oil pan gasket. Do I need a gasket for the oil pan pick up tube?

 

pan and pickup gaskets.

http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1708
http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1700-455

 

Nice prices. Thanks Michael I'm going to order them and also ask for a free sticker so I can put it on the Lark

 

Do I have to call in to order when they are open? Because I couldn't find a link

 

Yes.

You can email Sherri at taperf@aol.com or call.

Sherri
TA Performance Products
16167 N 81 St
Scottsdale, AZ 85260
480-922-6807

They are closed until after the 10th for Independence Day holiday.