building AC box

Hey all,

So a little while ago I sent all my factory AC bits (minus evap box) to board member MuscleCarz for cleaning, testing, and re-calibrating for R134. Everything came back and looks great. In the interim i cleaned, sanded, painted (with clear coat only), and repaired the evap box.

So I am ready to assemble the box and internals at this point. While I was in there (engine and front clip are off), I removed the heater core box as well. I have yet to crack that and start the cleaning & rebuilding of the core box. Actual box looks to be in good shape, but I will know more once I get into it.

My question is, how do you seal the evap box where the evap lines come out? I have that black sticky tape stuff and all seals, but is there a certain method to apply it?

Pics to come when I get home and have the time.

Thanks for any and all help!

Scott

 

Hey Guys,

So I am going to tackle putting the AC Evap box back together over the holiday weekend. Does anyone have any pictures of how the Valve Expansion Bulb attaches to the evaporator hose? I think it is with some metal clamps but cant seem to remember. Also if someone has a pic i can dig through my boxes of parts to see if i have those clamps. What other options besides the factory style clamps can i use?

 

I am in the process but haven’t installed yet. I got one of those foam seal kits from TPP and some 3 M caulk strips. I also picked up some of that AC butyl tape to wrap (red circle) the tube after it comes out of the AC box.

The third pic is something I found online and I’m trying to match that.

 

Well Scott, I can't help you but I am surprised no one else can. I did my digging for heater valves online looking at pictures, utube, chevy/BOP sites, etc. I still didn't get it right but at least I know what it is supposed to look like! Contact oldairproducts, maybe they have some advice.
https://www.oldairproducts.com/

 

Thanks guys

Looks like the expansion bulb attaches to the evap line via two clamps. Unfortunately I can't seem to locate those clamps so i gotta see if i can snag some somewhere. Ill see if anyone has some and put a thread up in the parts needed section.

~ Scott

 

Done with it, now to install!!

 

Looks good and livin the High life!

I still need to do all that. I had no idea there was a hose from the fitting to the blower fan. Where did you find that at? And if you bought new valves, where did you get them from?

Thanks Nick

 

Thanks Nick,

If your car came factory with AC then that hose is used to cool the fan motor down. Luckily I kept mine when I removed the factory blower. So it was just swap from old to new. If you don’t have one, see if someone here does or check out ThePartGuy.com.

The valves were the OEM ones that came with the car. I sent them to a boardmember here, Benny Sanchez (Musclecarz). He tested and cleaned the Evap, expansion valve, recalibrated the POA, and plated it.

 

Good info..

 

I need a source for the cooling hose as well.

My POA is on the way to Benny Sanchez as well.

 

Good info! My original didn’t have a hose attached. I was going to buy an after market POA valve, but if I can get my old one checked, that’s great.

I didn’t see info in Benny. Do you have his contact info?

 

I’m not sure if he is on the board anymore but his profile is Musclecarz. I only communicated with him via PM on here. Although I did reach him on Facebook messenger.

 

If you cannot find him CAA Original Air Group in Florida recondition them. Not cheap but they have nice items...

https://www.originalair.com/rebuild-request-form

 

Thank you both for the contact info. I don't know anything about this AC stuff, what's old and new technology.

If I get the old original valves refurbished, can you run the new AC stuff thru it? My assumption is R12 is old and you can't use that so you need to run R134a.

 

This is for reference:
Old Air Products 25-1552 - POA Valve | 1965-1973 GM, NOS Frigidaire $465.00

 

$465?!?!?! dang that's steep!

You CAN run R12 if you want. It is a better refrigerant and produces colder air. However, it is hard to acquire (especial for me in California). R134 is more modern so its much more plentiful. It doesn't get as cold though. If you want to run R134 you should have your original POA valve re-calibrated or purchase one that is ready for R134. There are plenty of supplies out there that provide replacement parts.

 

Utah - You can run either refrigerant. With R134 you should flush the system, change the oil in the compressor, and replace all seals. But, there are many folks who just do the seals and run 134. Your results may vary!

 

I don't think I have to worry about flushing the system The only thing that was left were the items on the AC suitcase (evaporator and valves). All hoses, condenser, dryer and whatever else is needed was non existent. The compressor was even in the trunk when I bought the car 18 years ago and has been living in a box in the garage.

I did buy a new evaporator and was just going to install that into the suitcase and call it good for now since the hardest part is getting the stuff on the firewall. And sometime later address the remaining AC components. But I figured I may have to either get new valves or refurbish the old ones and mount to the suitcase as well. Pics below is the old evaporator and valves removed 4 years ago.

 

You can reach Benny Sanchez via Facebook

Factory Auto Air - Classic Ride Society
Benny Sanchez

he can rebuild your parts

he even has some Youtube vids