I would like to know if there is a way a manual that will walk me through the process of building my own 350 for my 69 GS350. I have the core (#'s matching). What I need is some manual or source that I can say: give the hp I desire w/torque desired, etc etc... and then there's a table that can be researched to determine the right engine parts (all) to accomplish this. I know there are specific tools I will need. Feedback is appreciated. Scott Bolter Hawaii
wishes wow... if only it were so easy.... \ but maybe it is, I'm intrested in this thread. although to me driveability/comfort is more important to me. Nate
350 BUILD Hawaii 69 I would try to get a hold of Mike Atwood on the board here as he has a lot of Buick cam profiles punched into his desktop dyno and also different head flow comparisons with ported and unported heads. Mike I hope I'm not being too pushy sending him your direction, but it helped me out alot with that in picking my cam and other engine components. :TU:
There really is no book...but there is computer software that will do a decent job in estimating a combination. It's called Desktop Dyno (old version) and the new version is called Dyno 2000. If you don't have a computer and are looking for a specific horse power and torque range, I can run a few cams through mine here and see what the results are. The cheapest power you can probably get will be adding a cam and new lifters. I used the TA 212 from TA Performance ( www.taperformance.com ) and I am real happy with it. It's has a little lope but it is perfect for street use. You can use the stock valve train and stock converter and gears. To get the best from this cam, I would recommend 3.23+ and a 2400+ converter. I didn't have the software before I started mine, so I figured it out and then after it was done ran the dyno info and it was very close! If you are looking for something really HOT then you will be doing a few extra steps, like notched pistons, valve springs, and definitely a converter and gears. let me know what you want the car to do and how much you are looking to spend/how much you want to do. I'll run it through the computer. Definitely check out TA's web site, so you have an idea of some of the stuff you can get. Mike
Mike, What do you mean by HOT? I can hear it running in my head and when I see and hear a car driving by, I can tell that's how I want my car to run. Something along the lines of like my friends stock Camaro SS with after market exhaust. Sorry to use the "C" word in here, but it's all I could think of. o No: One question aside from the current topic. This 70 GS350. Did they require leaded fuel or unleaded? I haven't driven but a couple times, but just needed to know if I should be putting an additive with unleaded fuel. Scott Bolter Pearl City, Hawaii 1969 GS 350 By the way, I do have a computer. Where would I be able to get this DYNO 2000 and is it something I would be able to figure out. I am very mechanically illiterate. I want to learn. I would love to put this engine together myself, but I don't know if I am setting myself up for a whole bunch of problems or what. HELP!
I think after April of 1971 they started using hardened valve seats, so unleaded fuelc sould be used. If this is correct, your 70 was made to run on leaded fuel. If you plan on sticking your foot through the carb often, get your heads rebuilt with hardened valve seats...which they would do anyway if they rebuilt them.
Scott, 1970 motors were originally meant to run on leaded fuel. Our Buick blocks and heads were cast iron with a higher nickel content. This makes them more resistant to the dreaded valve recession than other makes. But really, valve recession is only a problem when the motor is run at high loads for extended periods of time(like racing). If you are worried, use a good lead substitute(every other tank full). Red Line makes a highly rated one. Or throw a little race gas in once and awhile. As far as building a motor goes, machine work is probably the most important factor. Finding a good shop, that knows Buick motors, and does accurate work is most important. If you really want to assemble it yourself, all you need is an accurate torque wrench, engine cleaning brushes, ring compressor, and a few other specialty tools. If I was you, I'd let the machine shop do the short block. Then you can put the rest of the motor together. There are plenty of books on basic engine assembly. Buick motors need special bearing and oil pump clearances, which is why I suggest letting a "Buick Experienced" machine shop do your shortblock. Good Luck.
Well here is what the TA212 sounds like at an idle. This is through 2" full exhaust and "stock" type mufflers. CLICK HERE FOR ENGINE SOUND The unleaded premium fuel will burn just fine in that motor. You can pick it up at about any Auto Zone Parts store or Advance Auto ..... it is also available online right here ==> http://www.motionsoftware.com/dyno2000prodpage.htm Mike
You guys with the 212 cam, how did you set up your timing that is, initial and total? I have a 69 GS350 with 212 cam and stock everything else with pertronix. Have an advancespring and bushing kit but need an idea about how to set the timing up. Thanks, Dan
I am running 18* and 34* total, all in at 1800 rpm using the lightest "gold" spring in the advance kit. I get no ping unless it's really hot outside. That is with 91 octane P.unleaded. I usually run 5 gal 110 octane with 10 gal 91 unleaded mix though, since it runs much better. Seems to have alot more power with that mix between 2500-3500. Mike
Scott.. FYI, run regular 87 octane in that engine. It is the low compression 70 engine, not the high compression that the 70 GS's got. The Buick heads are made of a strong iron and do not require hardened valves seats to run unleaded gas. If you were to run a lead additive all you would be doing is gumming up the fuel system with extra junk. Btw, email me and we can talk about Dyno 2000... Dan
DYNO 2000 If Mike has time I would like to know what to expect from my engine too.I am running a 70 315 hp 350with stock lower end except an adjustable oil pressure regulator.Has 10.25:1 compression with a set of Poston PE 104 springs, Poston GS 350-118 cam with .490 lift and.284 dur. TA headers,with TA 3in.exhaust.It has a Muncie m-20 4 spd 3.42 rear with 28 in. tires. I have an MSD 6al with a recurved dist.(don't remember what springs etc). was running around 34 deg total timing in the last motor. I want to add an aluminum intake later on but will have to use the stock intake. I am using a 71 800 cfm carb with a spacer plate. Poston claims I should run mid 13s. Please let me know what to expect. Thanks,PAT :TU:
THANKS MIKE THANKS MIKE, Really appreciate that you took time to rum my new combo. Again, Many Thanks PAT:TU: :TU:
Pat I was looking into something very close to what you have only I have the TA intake and would like to have some port work done to the heads My combo is looking like this: 350 STD 10.1 forged piston 76 rods with ARP bolts Suded top and bottom end Poston GS-118 cam kit TA 350 intake GM hei with 6Al box Poston headers 2 1/2 inch exaust threw a set of flows 350 trans with 2600 rpm converter 3.36 posi rear 800cfm Q jet. I want to run the biggest cam and still use my A/C, PWR brakes,PWR steeering. This is all going in my 65 4 door skylark. It will be my daily driver. Please let me know how fast the car is when you get it to the track. Thanks Doug
