Buinicorn my 1964 wagon

Discussion in 'Drag'n Wagons' started by superbuickguy, May 21, 2017.

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  1. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    fuel line
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    hmmm... adapting to fit doesn't work...
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    bright side is the motor is now bolted in place until I blow it up....
     
  2. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    hardware store raided
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    the best purchase, ever
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    still waiting for a couple fittings, but closer
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    pressure regulator in place
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    I'm just going to go out on a limb and say there's not quite enough room for that one fitting (on the transmission)
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  3. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    time to complete the fuel system
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    today's arrival
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    filter placement verified
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    lines made
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    a trick to keep from fraying the black covering
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  4. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    I love the tetris of instructions.they don't tell you. like this?
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    nope, like this
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    and installing
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    I think the repair turned out okay.... quite literally no one will see it
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    too wide - it's from when my Corvette had the stock front suspension
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    moving forward
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    the next thing is a radiator...
     
  5. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    radiator is ordered
    Time to get the floor done so I can paint then put the body on the frame forever
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    fit
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    more fit
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    just welding left
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  6. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    looking at my pictures tonight, there really isn't anything 'new' - but I think I'm going to take a different tack, the left side will have a nitros bottle, right side a ethanol tank and battery - but I was going to build the box in - I think the better choice is make it flat then form some boxes built especially for the various things....
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    more likely I'll tuck the bottle in further to the fender.... my 'goal' with this car is do Rocky Mountain race week or such - but this would be home and race car... so comfort it going to happen and sleeping in the back as well....
    which means as wide as possible.... I actually hope to drive this to SEMA this year....
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    now all I need is motivation.... seems we might be moving at about the same time as SEMA - so the window to get this done is pretty narrow.
     
  7. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    metal work
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    2/3rds of it is done
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    minus a little bit
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  8. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    the basic shape is done....
    Inner fender
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    a bit of filling left
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    inner panel
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    I doubt I'll weld this fully - the biggest problem this car had was water got in at the window and pooled in the inner fender until it rotted away...

    That said, a bit more welding and I can paint the underside, and sound coat the inside... then wire it, then it can move under its own power.... then the Corvette, then this body/paint.
     
  9. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    Did I say this was a solid car? well, it is now
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    so time to take it even further apart.... the driver's side doors haven't been removed - and the rear left doors ... well, they fought.
    if you're counting, only one of these came off as intended
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    I love heat
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    I win
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    I need to strip the rest of the shell. do some minor clearancing, fix a couple small spots then get to coating
     
  10. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    more coloring in the lines
    a box
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    looks like another warranty is going to get its feelings hurt
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    for those wondering... the 64 Buick support is different than the Chevelle
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    now it fits
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    in other news, starter is bolted in and the converter is as well
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    and revisit something... where the dark spot I heated to fix oil canning.... it worked! I really didn't get it that warm.. ~ 200 degrees, maybe... I put a block behind then heated it briefly... worked great
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  11. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    for those who wonder what the bolts looked like to get them out....
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  12. Max Damage

    Max Damage Well-Known Member

    Which are those? You welded on larger nuts?
     
  13. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    the rear doors have phillip-screw-head bolts. the nuts are welded to them - does 2 things, 1) gets something to grip after the phillips stripped, and 2) heat always helps get bolts out.....
     
  14. Max Damage

    Max Damage Well-Known Member

    Thanks. The threads do look mint on those screws...
     
  15. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    I've already got the allen head bolts to replace them....
     
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  16. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    outside of today's shenanigans with my FJ40, I did other things
    first was get the steering column out ... that was a lot more pain that I was expecting
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    then came the yoyo of up and down to clearance the floor for the 4L80e. I refuse to cut and add metal... so I heated and banged
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    banging, round 2
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    round 3 (keep in mind, up and down)
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    what needs clearance - the cooler fittings
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    and took the wiper box off the firewall (it is seized solid)
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    Max Damage likes this.
  17. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    well would you look at what I found
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    someone had a book, copied the pages, then bound them into a reference manual. Whoever did this, you're a legend, a hero, and savior of the universe.
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    all is not 100% happy, though, because the copies are not all very clear. That said, it is more than good enough for me
    picture of blurs in the shape of words
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    frame got rolled outside and covered because the most hateful task is ahead
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    cleaning the underside
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    and, of course, welding (until I ran out of gas)
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    once this is done, etch primer, maybe paint? maybe undercoating? maybe bed liner? I honestly don't know yet
     
  18. Max Damage

    Max Damage Well-Known Member

    Do you do something to the surface rust before applying the self-etching primer?
     
  19. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    it depends on its severity. If I can still see it after it's been sanded, I'll use phosphoric acid to convert it... otherwise, no.
     
    Max Damage likes this.
  20. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    new tool. do I recommend? maybe. It's about as powerful as an air die grinder - the straight kind. So it is useful, but keep in mind I punched one hole with it and did the rest with my larger Makita..... which is dying because I use it to smoke coming out - and it keeps working but the writing is on the wall for it (and my Makita sawzall)

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    these were done with the Makita - this is the rear-most mounts on the car and both were rusted solid - so no choice but to cut replace the nuts and weld back (when I get my nuts)
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    I can't imagine why GM made this nut-holder so complex
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    this was done with the new tool
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    finished welding the battery box
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    the rest of my evening was a fan-favorite wire brush the dirt off the underside
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    I weighed it, 10 lbs of dirt
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    tomorrow a bit more cleaning then likely put the body back on because the motor may be ready for my Corvette.... I need to get it out of the shop because the next parts of the Buick are dirty in both dust and overspray
     

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