I love the way I can rebuild my Holley and have it running back on my car in 2 hours, but I love the running effectiveness of a QJet but they kick my butt setting them up right and rebuilding them and I'm no Q-Jet expert. Anyway while I had my Q-Jet apart, somehow a Gremlin got me and I lost one of the long silver needles that drop down into the float chamber. Anyway this Q-Jet is off my 71' GS 350 now in an 86' Regal, anyway I took apart an Extra Electronic controlled Q-Jet that was originally in that Regal on that Olds 307 that's now sitting in some yard, tee hee :laugh: to use one, but their taper is different. The older 71 needle is more gradual from it's point, where the other needle has a wide taper from the point like a countersink. Will this work? will it run ok, does anyone know of somewhere they sell individual internal parts if this isn't going to work so I can get back to a proper pair of needles for this carb. Thanks for inputs.
Yeah, those newer primary rods won't work on that carb. Here's a place I have been getting my stuff from. Good luck. MARK Click Here
Are you talking about the secondary rods that hang from the hanger that runs between the secondary butterflies? If so, they must match.
All of this stuff can also be found at www.carburetion.com. The primary metering rods are much more specific than the secondary and the car will not run right without the right ones to match the jets. The secondaries are not as important until you punch it. The primaries have numbers and a letter on them which are very small. Look hard for something like 44B on the one left over and order the same one. the secondaries have just two letters like AX or AU. There are maybe 50 or more different secondary rods. The skinnier are richer. Check a service manual to found out what is stock.
Edelbrock makes a limited selection of jets, metering rods, power valve piston springs, secondary metering rod hangers, etc. It is available seperately, or as a "Tuning kit" that also includes an accelerator pump and maybe some other misc. pieces. There is one tuning kit for '75 and newer carbs, (p/n 1992) and one for '74 and older, (p/n 1991) because of the different lengths of the primary metering rods. I bought one kit, and all the metering rods from the second kit, so now I've got a complete set of all their parts. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EDL-1992&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EDL-1991&N=700+115&autoview=sku IF (big IF) you want these kits, I suggest you buy 'em now. Edelbrock has discontinued all their Q-Jet carbs, the only ones left are old stock of "remans"--the new ones that were returned under warranty, and then repaired by Edelbrock. So it stands to reason that if they've discontinued the carbs, it won't be long before they disco the replacement parts, too.
Thanks for the inputs, it is the secondary metering rods. So it should run ok on primary's unless I crack it hard open. Will it flood then and stall it out? I don't remember, but are their removable Jet's below the Rods they slide down into that I take out one of the Jets to that Rod from the electronic Q-Jet and put in where it's rod is. Strangely enough, I've been running the engine with the Q-Jet, and gone back and forth from a 600cfm vacuum Secondary Holley on as well and both seem to run about the same in the driveway, hard to get a decent idle. I thought it was the metering rod different until looking at my exploded view from the rebuild kit and realized it's the secondary rod I lost. This is the first time back running since putting in the TA212 cam and stage 1 manifold and I'm having a hard time getting an idle unless my timing is up around 16 - 18 degree's way above my stock marker plate. It really varies as the engine warms up. Boy, one big pain in the A$$ thing about this G-body and the 80's cars is half the crap is metric, half SAE, so trying to get my powersteering working is a real pain, I have a gear box with a metric thread high pressure hose thread, and the back of my pump orginating to the 71' engine is SAE, All the bends in the tubing isn't giving me much space to cut off and re-flare the tubing with the proper threaded fitting to the gearbox. Eventually I hope to win this wrestling match. So I can :3gears:
Rusty: As to your metric power steering pump fitting. The SAE fitting in the back of the pump can be unscrewed and the Metric fitting screwed right in its place. The threads in the pump are the same, only difference is the part the hose screws onto (metric vs. SAE). When you unscrew that fitting there is a spring and valve in there. That way you can use the metric hose for the pressure side, makes for an easy swap.
Rusty, The secondary jets are fixed in the QJ. As to your idle issues with a nonstock cam but stock carb: On the primary side; The power piston spring needs to be compatible with your available manifold vacuum. Not sure what spring you have in there and not sure what your idle vacuum is. But the spring has to match up with the idle vacuum. The springs are rated (there's many of them) in inches of vacuum. Where they start to open and at what vacuum they're fully open, i.e. 6-3, 7-4, etc... as measured in inches of vacuum. What's happening is on the primary side of the carb, there is a power piston that rides in a bore. The base of this bore is ported directly to manifold vacuum. The spring is constantly trying to overcome the available vacuum that is present at the base of this bore. So as the spring pushes the piston upward the vacuum is trying to pull it downward. The primary metering rods are attached to the top of the powerpiston and as the piston is raised and lowered in its bore it raises or lowers the tapered primary metering rods up and down in the primary jets, richening or leaning the mixture. So you can see if you have a camshaft with less available vacuum at idle the stock spring (which is rated for higher vacuum) is trying to raise the rods out of the jets causing a rich condition and all kinds of metering woes. You can clip a coil or coils off the spring to dial it in or get another spring that is already premeasured for the vacuum reading your seeing at idle. Tuning is typically the most misunderstood aspect of getting these to run right, once that's mastered they're tough to beat for a daily driver.
Well I got the power steering working and tight, even though they will seemingly screw in, using the thread gauge they are the 2 threads between metric and fractional that are very close, but I find that too risky to apply much tightening force to risk stripping my pumps threads. Plus the 86 uses a longer flare with an O-Ring that wouldn't go into the 71's pump. I used my 71's hose, cut off the gearboxes fittings and put the 86's proper fitting on the 71's tube, and reflared it, it worked out well, just little room to use the tubing cutter. Thanks for the input on the Q-jet I've never been good with them, right now I've just put my Holley back on, and it seems to hold an idle while in gear a bit better. Right now my old Sears Tuneup box has crapped and I can't find my meter that has dwell adjustment. I planned on an HEI but had to put the points distributor back in so I know that's part of what's fighting me trying to tune up. I got an HEI off Ebay about a year ago planning for this change out, but once I went to use it, I found it bad, wouldn't hardly turn, I took apart to clean it, but also found the magnetic ring around the pickups all broken, it holds true you never know what you get when buying on ebay, even though it looks new with a bright shiney red cap. So until I get everything correct in the Q-Jet and the metering rods the same again I'll keep the Holley on, but I know the Q-jet will get me better gas mileage plus they sound so cool when those large secondaries open.
