I have a clutch chatter when car is warmed up. The flywheel has been turned and not a lot of miles on the clutch. Standard type clutch and not racing. I'm thinking clutch material. Are the ceramic clutches better in reducing chatter. One other thing could be forward and backwards movement of the crankshaft?
I guess one other thing, maybe the flywheel is to thin not dissipating the heat. How can you tell when a flywheel is to thin to turn. Not sure on how these are measured.
Was there a lot of play in the clutch disc where it engages with the input shaft splines? I know that will cause some chatter if it fits really loose, or has a lot of play in it.
All fit like it should, only see the problem when engine and transmission really warm up, like a steady long drive. Seem like it heat related.
Sounds like it then. Hopefully one of the more experienced manual transmission guys will respond, too. I have a 4-speed Malibu, but it only chatters after it's been sitting for a while. Once warmed up it's smooth.
Please be specific in describing the problem. "clutch chatter" is typically heard when the clutch disc/pressure plate/flywheel surfaces are not engaging smoothly and the rapid "grab/release" repeated results in the "chattering/shuddering". (If a clutch pack is "slipping" under power, then it may also result in the same "chatter/shudder") If it is not occurring at the engaging or disengaging, or due to slipping, then you have another problem. In some cases, resurfacing a flywheel too far can result in the mounting bolt heads being above the plane of the flywheel mating surface and the clutch disc hub/rivits or springs can have interferance with the bolt heads and cause noise. Clutch that has gotten overheated can become glazed on the friction surface as well as "hot spots" (crystalline structure forms in the metal face of the pressure plate and/or the flywheel.) All of these can result in slipping, grabbing, chatter and shudder. The steel wave (spring) in the clutch disc "sandwich" can become weak from overheating (from slipping the clutch) and the "cushion" effect is lost, resulting in slipping, grabbing, chatter and shudder. Worn or cocked release (throw out) bearing, or worn fork, broken ball stud, or z-bar/linkage, can created bad release/engagements. Grease/oil can also cause the same problems the the clutch pack listed above. Sticking or worn pilot bearing in the flywheel. Worn front bearing (input shaft housing bearing). Worn, loose or broken transmission crossmember mount. U-joint. Output shaft and or bushing.
All excellent points! No oil leaks. The car shakes on engagement, not slipping. I have never slipped the clutch to create a glaze issue. Only when car is warmed up. Cold works perfectly. The flywheel has been machined twice that I know of.
Contamination of the friction coating on the clutch from leaks as Trunkmonkey mentioned, or from unclean original assembly can cause this as well. The heat related bit makes me like the spring in the clutch pack as the prime suspect.
Keep in mind a long drive doesn't always equate to a hot clutch. There should be little to no heat in the clutch if you're in top gear cruising.
As stated, utmost care to ensure no oil or grease get on flywheel, pressure plate, or clutch friction faces during handling or assembly. Any amount is unacceptable. Gearing and weight of car can also cause chatter etc. when engaging. Does it only occur during start (moving) from dead stop? If so, does it occur in reverse? Was there any "hot spotting" noticed when you did the resurfacing and reassembly?
Bellhousing misalignment can cause chatter on initial engagement although everything will still go together. https://www.moderndriveline.com/proper-bellhousing-alignment-indexing-2/
I had a case where the flywheel mounting face on the rear of the crankshaft had quite a bit of paint on one side but not so much on the other. This caused the flywheel to wobble, resulting in shuddering during engagement. A thorough cleaning of the flange corrected the issue.
If never been pleased with the current crankshaft, main bearing knock on start up cold. I have a new 10 10 crankshaft and having the polit bearing set on a crankshaft tooling to correctly center the bearing. Going with a Billet flywheel and may be a ceramic disk.
Like Joe said, there should be no heat in the clutch while cruising. Make sure that you have enough free play in the clutch pedal.
Will do, have no problem getting in to gear or reverse. Engine and the works coming out shortly. The internals of the 455 sound like a old worn out Ford when warmed up. The crankshaft that's in there is what I think causing my issues. When I change out the crankshaft and bearings will be replacing flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and release bearing.
Looking into a Billet flywheel, and well made clutch kit. Any ideas? Stock 455, not racing and easy pedal. Buick parts are tuff! Never had all these problems with my Corvette!
Thanks Brad, I should have came to you first for an expert option. I think I may have the gremlin on the run.
