What are you all using for rods in your motors that run to 6500rpm? I was planning on the TA reconditioned rods but thought that there might be something else available in the $700 range like the Sportsman rods for the 400-455. To get mine shotpeened, maxnafluxed, polish the beams, resize the big end and rebush would be $500. I have a lot into the rest of the motor and the weakest link will be the rods.
Now that the sportsman rods are available, my vote is for the few extra $ they're a good buy. I know a few folks who run to 6500 regularly with reconditioned stock rods with ARP bolts, but as you pointed out, nowadays the $ difference isn't a lot for the upgrade. Most of those folks in the day realized they were pushing the limit, especially with heavy forged pistons. I've been to 6500+ by mistake and currently limit to 6000. My next project will make use of the TA billet rods. Devon
I guess I need to call TA, I did not know the Sportsman were available for the 350? That would be exactly what I am looking for. I love to spin the motor, but am not so keen on breaking parts. I prefer to run in the safe zone as opposed to the limit, within my budget. I definitely need to move the limit up :laugh:
http://www.buickperformancegroup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5205&highlight=forged+350+rods I would have gone this route, but I already had forged press on pistons... but this is the rod you want! I don't know if you can still get them though.:3gears:
I'm an idiot. Not the first time I've clicked "new posts" and replied to the small block forum with big block info! :spank: Devon
I saw the Herche rod posting on BPG but at $1250 they are too much for my budget and a bit of overkill for a 6500rpm motor. For a more intermediate solution I would probably go for the TA billet Al rods. But I really want to be closer to $700. I don't think momma has noticed yet that I pawned her fur coat and engagement ring to pay for the head work and roller rockers. It would be hard to make the china disappear without her noticing.:rant:
I was willing to shed some money for these myself but I can't at that price.They did look like some good pieces,I just couldn't justify the expense.I corresponded with the fellow a couple of times and thanked him for stepping up to the sbb cause.He was friendly even though I told him from the get go, that I wasn't buying.I wanted to know more about them and the NHRA certification.If I was building a race engine I would look into these.
I've got 6.3'' small journal, small block chevy Eagle H-beam forged steel rods in my Buick 350 that I race. Saved about 100 grams weight per rod over the stock Buick rods. Very reasonablly priced at $550 for the stregnth gain. Chevy engine builders run them to 7500 rpm on a regular basis. Had to go with custom piston though,for the difference in pin height. I used Ross lightweight custom pistons and lightweight pins $780. Had to move the bearing tang on one half of rod and used buick bearings and skinny the rod up about .085 for proper side clearance. My machinest is a very reputable race engine builder,specializing in chevy(now a 350 buick) out of Rock Springs Wyoming.I've got 131 passes on it this year,shifting at 6200rpm so I'm pretty convinced. Troy
Guess I have been very lucky with stock Buick rods . Am using the later style with the cap screws which are ARP . Normal shift is 6000 , can't count the number of runs on it and luckily still together . If I had it to do over again I would upgrade on the rods for safety sake and financial sake .
You should post who made your pistons and the name/number of the builder unless he wants to remain anonymous.
The piston builder Ross Racing Pistons. Job card # off the order sheet was 115793. Should help speed the process of ordering. Waited about 5 weeks. Pistons are a true flat top with 4 cc valve reliefs. Engine builder Brian Leibee with Leibee Precision Machine,Phone# 307-362-5049. Tell him Troy sent ya hill take care of ya. Troy
Thanks for that info casper, very usefull indeed! The custom rods mensioned sound really good but $$$$, the sbc rod may be the way to go. For anyone who uses the stock rods make SURE you use late model capscrew style and not the early ones as they are much better. Last time I asked TA was only re-conditioning the old style.
I talked to TA, they have the cap screw rods as well as the old nut-bolt rods. Mine is a 71 but had a remanufactured POS engine in it, with only "About 2000mi on it". About the only thing on the bottom end besides the block (which had to go to .045") that is worth salvaging are the cap screw rods, which need to be reconditioned. Pistons are already in the trash. The crank was ground 20/20 to straighten out & it had taper & bad radiuses and $200 later is still not usuable for my build. On the top side the heads are off for porting with new valves, springs, rockers, everything. Tossing in a new cam (TA413 on 110). Added the TA intake and will be looking for a new carb. Have new fuel pump, water pump, mini-starter and headers. Bought this one off e-Bay with "fresh motor". ou:
Just thought I'd add some info that i got in a PM from Darryl R. "The rods should be cap screw style. They should be polished along the side-beams to a mirrior finish, including, if not especially where the rod broaches at the point where it meets the crank. Have them sonic tested and magnafluxed and checked for size ad straightness before you start. Grind all casting flash and all rough edges smooth. DO NOT remove any material from the bearing radius, or you could open up too much end play. Grind the ballancing pads down as much as possible [leave a little], and THEN have them rebuilt. Big end resized, small end bronze bushed for floating pins [only if your TRW slugs accept floating pins]. After you get them back, your still not done. Now it's time to ballance them. You can do this at home. GET THEM PERFECT, and matched to the pistons!!! You can also have them: Ion nitrited Hard chromed Directionally magnatized Chryogenically relaxed ..... The list goes on, just pick what looks best to you, and what your budget allows, and have it done" Makes me want to go and get the custom rods and just be done with it.....
The short block I am selling is as near bullet proof as one can be made and my dirt track buddy has a big surprise for some of fhis fellow racers when he gets it in .
If we are talking about rods (and anyone is interesteduzzled: ) I have a spare set of pretty close to Buick 350, Carrillo rods for sale. They are lightweight Roush/Nascar take out rods that goes on a 2.00" (2.125" bore) crank pin 6.320" long x .902" wide and take a .912" pin. Small end is bushed with a hole for the oil up through the rod. High dollar 7/16 Carr bolts and have a EDM pin oiler option($400). Roush used a common Celevite 77 CB745H bearing and not any custom ones. Magged good with 328 miles. I would like to get $250.00 OBO. Pictures stink, but it is all I have at work of these rods.:TU: and can get more pictures.
hmm about 57 thou shorter and 66 thou wider than stock, I assume these are what you are using then in your build Tom. What are you using for pistons?
I have new sets comming out of my hoohaa all the way up to 6.500"ou: This is all new to me and I am learning as I go along. Troy, thanks for the name of your builder. I will give him a call. Question for you, Was there any thought to opening up the throws as opposed to narrowing the rods? I wonder about that? Pistons -I have a set of forged TRW's 30 over L2431F but by the time I have the pin hole bushed and cut for locks it may cost the same as having custom ones made. I have talked to Wiseco a couple of times. $200.00? for the 6.320's? Thanks guys. I'm 350 dumb, so any feedback helps. Also, come on over to shop! There is lots to do on the car.
