Basic Combo: 600+ HP, 4:10 gear. TH400, 4500 Stall. Front drag springs / adj shocks. No tubs/mini-tubs. Is it possible to hook, launch straight, and be consistent with a properly tuned upper & lower control arm based rear end (along with Lakewood No-hop bars)? Assume Chevy 12 bolt / full spool. Also assume the upper and lowers would be some sort of heavy duty adjustable system. Or should I just take the plunge and do a Ford 9", ladder bar, coil over set-up? I think it would be cool to run a stock type suspension well into the 10's... I'd rather not spend 3 years trying to get it together though. The purpose of the car at this point is for bracket racing. Thanks!
Check this link out. http://www.hrpartsnstuff.com/ I don't know what else is involved, but I'm going the stock-style suspension route. I had already decided on laddder bars and called for a recomendation for my application (4500lb A-body) and what they told me was with that much weight I would need to inspect the front rod ends after every event and change them after about six events. Not exactly what I was looking for! I did some looking around and ended up at HRparts-n-stuff, and I liked what I heard. I'll find out how much more is involved after the car goes together.
Thanks Alan. I forgot about them entirely. I've also got a GN and have looked into getting their poly motor mounts. Hopefully they'll have a set for the A bodies soon. Being relatively new to this level of performance (GN was bolt-on, high 11s), what would be my best route for getting help adjusting a set-up like this? Plenty of shops "think" they know what they're doing with ladder bars and the like. I would think this is more home, bolt-on based and they wouldn't want to touch. I'm not sure about adjusting for the pinion angle and getting the driveshaft sized properly. Maybe I can find one of the Chicago Chapter guys to help.... Do you plan to have your set-up ready by the Nats? With you going this route are you somehow going to leave "softer" thereby saving your front rods?? Thanks again. John
What I'm getting from HRparts-n-stuff are the rear control arms that replace the factory control arms. The uppers will be adjustable and the lowers 1/4" longer than stock. This will bring the pinion down a little. I didn't want to have to continously tear the car apart to check things so I gave up the idea of ladder bars. If my car was lighter it wouldn't be as much of an issue. The Green car (in my avatar) has ladder bars and they work well, but I don't kill it off the line, either. Check out this link http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8433 for a car that works well with ladder bars! And he kills it off the line, too! (sorry for any confusion, I'm building another car!)
John You can call me at 330 220 4774 I have been down both roads and can shed some light on things. It would take forever for me to type,but minutes to verbalize. Stock suspension below
Looking at the pictures I'd say ladder bars win! Gary, would it be possible for you to post at least a condensed version of your reply to John so everyone can learn from it? I have a long way to go to get where I want to be and any info is appreciated.
In my opinion,as long as you aren't running a class that prohibits ladder bars,they are the way to go. What John and I discussed was consideration for future goals. Obviously it is more cost effective to build it once. With the ladder bars I have a much more consistant,predictable car. It is nicer to drive and looks better leaving the line. A guy can start w/ a ladder bar set-up while still retaining stock shock and springs,( I've seen a number of cars that work very well with this set up).Then later step up to a QUALITY set of coil overs. Therefore it is a bit more affordable and takes nothing away from the function. I think the adj control arm kits are getting a little pricey for what they do. I'll think of more later,but I think the pics speak volumes for my opinion.
Coolness! Maybe I should have called more than one place about the ladder bars (I can't imagine 1000lbs making that much difference, but maybe so.) I have high hopes for the stock style suspension, but as usual I'm doing something that's not considered *normal*. The good thing is that as the car gets lighter I can change to ladder bars or race style 4-link and use the bolt on stuff on another A-body. Seven second Sport Wagon, anyone!
Gary what type of ladder bars are you using is it a kit from some one what size wheels and tires running did you run in a class at the nats.I would like to go that route. Not shure witch togo with can you shed some on that.I would like to run in GSP they need to open the class up to ladder bar after all when the new blocks out 1100+hp you will somthing skating is not fun. I would like to call you and talk
Just a quick note based on my experience. I raced a '70 Olds Cutlass in Super Pro for four years here around Florida. I put about 200 passes per season on that car. I was running a "stock" style rear suspension. Basically stock control arms, No-Hop bars, one air bag, and HAL adjustable shocks. I launched with a transbrake. The car usually ran in the 11.60 range, but did go 11.41. My 60's were 1.52-1.56 depending on time of year, especially with the Florida heat. On new tires I've gone 8 rounds in a row with 60's within .008. The car was deadly consistent. NOW, the downside. The car was also very tempermental with track condition. On a good track it was deadly. On a bad track (August in Florida) it could be a hand full. It was also very particular about weight distribution and front end travel. The stock suspension can work, but it takes alot of work and testing. If I was going electronics/T-brake racing again I would do it with ladder bars or even a four link. Have fun.
I use 36" bars from S&W in Pa. I didn't buy a kit,I bought everything seperate as we built the car. I use a 10.5x30 Goodyear on 15x10 Monocoque wheel. The GSP class does allow ladderbars so bring it out,we need more people so they don't disolve the class.
