Agreed, a block shouldn’t need much work to get things in spec after cryo however it should be checked 100%. For example with my billet crank they CNC cut it to rough shape, sent it for cryo, fine tuned the machine work leaving a few thou to work with, final cryo treatment and then final machine work. I’ve had brake rotors cryo treated and they seemed true after the treatment so I ran them without checking for runout. With a crank though it needs to be perfect, not much room for error. Btw the cryo treated rotors never warped after 10 years of abuse. Jim W who owns this board turned me onto this tip, he cryo treats his tow rigs rotors after years of warped rotors. Aligning the molecules helps prevent warping among other advantages.
The rotor tip is very good to know, I saw that wear resistance is one of cryo's major functions as well as a hardness increase so rotors are the perfect part for treatment. How much did a billet crank cost if you don't mind me asking? And is a billet block something that would ever be necessary for a 300 or is that really only for the deep 1xxx hp figures?
Off the top of my head I think the billet crank was about $3500. I’m not sure what the limits of the 300 block are but I wouldn’t be scared to run one with a stock cryo crank, good rods and pistons at about 600 HP. The head flow is the limitation on the 300, the boost helps overcome that within reason but I can’t see over 600 Hp without getting pretty exotic. TA rover heads may be hard to find but they do exist. A billet block while cool would be a $100,000 type of project at very least. I can’t see anyone investing in that for the 300.
That's a very fair price for the crank for the amount of work involved, especially the double machining. I've got the aluminum heads which i think flow a little worse than the 65-67 ones and they had no work done apart from i believe hardened valve seats so the flow is definitely not gonna be too good to me. But then again I don't see me needing that much power out of this engine ever. That block price tag is insane, i was expecting 20k at most haha.
well it’s the R&D money to design it. If it was mass produced it could be $8600 like the Big block buick aftermarket block is for example. what car is the 300 going into? Are you using a power adder? Drag racing or street? What’s the rest of the combo?
I guess we need to place a group order then . I actually haven't got a car to put the engine into yet. I'm hoping to find a decent first gen skylark or Skyhawk this summer, but a foxbody would be very nice as well (maybe i won't get crucified.) I have a 1994 WC T5 from a Camaro for it, just need to sell the Camaro bell housing and get a BOP one. I swapped the 2bbl Rochester for a 500cfm 4bbl Carter AVS that I'm rebuilding right now. The cam is a crower 50230. Compression ratio is 9.1:1. No power adder yet as i have cast silvolite pistons. Block was bored 0.020 over. Aluminum heads had some work done by previous owner, but other than hardened valve seats I'm not sure what exactly. It's going to be a street car, probably a daily driver.
Sounds cool, I will dig up a good threat for you to read: https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/a-guide-to-building-the-lil-guy-the-mighty-300.191151/
