1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Current/Amps/? to Lockup Turbo 200-4R Converter

Discussion in 'The "Juice Box"' started by knucklebusted, Oct 6, 2014.

  1. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Anyone use a B&M 70244 Torque Converter Lockup Kit? or the Painless 60110?
     
  2. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    I used the TCI lockup kit
     
  3. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    The Painless looks very similar to the TCI though the actual vacuum switch is different.

    I wish it would dry up so I can get out and give it a trial run.
     
  4. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    Well, I've got something wired wrong. Since it is a ground wire, I'm afraid I've gotten something out of sorts. I'm going to try something different.
     
  5. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    How do you have it wired?
     
  6. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    I teed off the cruise brake switched side. When braking, the switch cuts 12+ to the trans and the delay switch. One leg goes to the transmission. The other leg goes to the delay switch 12+ side. Into the trans, out the other trans for the ground side to the vacuum switch. From the vacuum switch to the to the switched side of the delay box.

    I think my problem is the ground side isn't grounded yet and it won't trigger the delay to come on. I'm going to try to wire the delay switch inline to the ground switch since I'm thinking it will be 12+ until it actually grounds.

    I might have to draw a diagram to help me understand it myself.
     
  7. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    For sure you need ground or it won’t lockup
     
  8. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    Yep, know that but I think what is happening is the 12V+ in to the delay switch is backfeeding into the TC solenoid so that there is no ground.

    Here's a diagram.

    upload_2018-6-3_16-2-33.png

    I'm going to try this arrangement to see if it solves the problem, which I see as having 12V on both sides of the Delay Switch input. I'm just not sure if it will work due to the circuit grounding when the vacuum switch closes and essentially bypassing the Delay Switch since it completes the circuit. I'm not an electrical engineer so I'm winging it and relying on fuses to save my rear.

    upload_2018-6-3_16-6-26.png
     
  9. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    OK, after seeing it drawn out, I think I need to do it quite a bit differently. I don't want any ground in the circuit to the transmission solenoid until all the other external conditions are met. This diagram seems to make more sense to me.

    Power to the brake switch cruise side unless braking. Power the vacuum switch unless low vacuum condition. Power to the Delay Switch unless braking or low vacuum. Power to the TC solenoid 5 seconds after no brakes and high vacuum. Transmission always grounded on the output side. Boy, the color of my wiring is going to be all shot to heck and back. LOL

    upload_2018-6-3_16-17-22.png
     
  10. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    Well, that worked better and but not what I expected. The delay starts any time it has enough vacuum and the brakes aren't on. So, it still drops into 4th, immediately locks the converter because the delay has already expired. Maybe I need the ground of the delay switch wired to the 12v+ going to the transmission. That way I can't complete the circuit until 4th gear grounds it?

    I'm not sure this will ever fire because the ground doesn't happen until the delay expires but the delay never starts because it isn't grounded. I'm confused I think.

    upload_2018-6-23_22-35-0.png
     

Share This Page