Picked up a very nice set of upper peak/upper door mouldings for my '71 Skylark. Also a trunk trailing edge trim piece along with the quarter extension end pieces. The trunk I think I'm OK on as I believe the quarter extensions have a casting mark on the inside to reference where to drill the holes. Trunk edge piece should be an easy one to fit too. The upper peak mouldings is where I may hit a snag. Will they "fall into place" once laid on the car? i.e. Will it be obvious where they go? Looks like they also need holes drilled & fastened from the inside of the car. Any tips greatly appreciated. Merry Christmas.
Pretty straight forward I put a set of those on before and they are pretty straight forward to me. I placed them on the car and they pretty much sat where they were suppose to. If you use the rear quarter piece's as a guide and line them up with your drip rail molding near the rear it should go smoothly. Then tape the door piece's on you should be able to figure it out rather easily. Again pay attention to the front where it meets the drip rails. Then draw a line on each side of the molding to get your width down. Place your clips accordingly and away you go. Of course you should lay 2 strips of 2" tape across the area where you think it's going to lay on the body. That way you won't screw up the paint. Then i popped the moldings in place. You would never know the difference unless you took them off. Good Luck
Hi Jarrod, Did you fasten from the inside or outside. A few clips still on the pieces are similar to a blind nut. Thinking I may have to remove the interior panels to pass a screw thru from inside.
Steve I can walk you thru with pics if you need it. I did this about 4 months ago. with screw in studs for the door. Did you get all the clips from the donor car.
I used screw like you are talking about on the ends at the back of the doors. As for the rest of them i used screws to hold the clips and then popped on the moldings. I couldn't use my stud gun at the time to weld the studs in place so i went with screws instead. That reminds me that i still haven't got my stud gun back yet. In case you were wondering a stud gun cost around $200. Not cost effective for one job but if you like doing your own body work a stud gun is real handy.
Will have a better look early next week. At first I didn't really pay too much attention to the fasteners. Once I got home I started to think about it a bit. Pieces are at the shop right now.
Had a better look at these pieces & the associated fasteners in the shipping container.The trunk trailing edge trim has 5 fasteners inserted into the slot on the back. These are spring steel & are female threaded 8-32. Looks like it originally had 6. Drill a series of holes & secure from inside the trunk. The peak moulding quarter piece has 5 fasteners. These are inserted into the channel/slot in the back & twisted about an eighth of a turn. A small arm retains them in this position. These particular clips have a pair of male wedges that look like they get compressed a bit & pushed thru a hole. Once in the hole they will expand again. The peak door piece looks like it once had the same wedge style fasteners. Only difference is at the trailing edge. A plastic clip, with a retaining arm, is present. Clip is female threaded 8-32. Looks like the extreme trailing edge of the door was drilled & a screw used to keep the trim piece in place. Found only a couple of these three different style fasteners. Would like to replace with new if available. Reproductions available??
