From what I am told the hard part is removing the trim pieces without messing them up. I was quoted from several shops around $750-$800 for them to do it. Has anyone done it themselves before? Any tricks to removing the trim? ---------- Post added at 05:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:28 PM ---------- also, I was looking at http://www.newstalgiaparts.com/PartsDetails/3/6021-C/14688/33127/Buick/Riviera/1971/Vinyl Top# would this be descent? or can anyone recomend somewhere else? I was going to go with Dark Briar Brown at newstalgia.
I didnt do it myself but I did help and I only paid 350.00. I think if I had to do it again I could do it on my own with no problem.
I've only done one myself and it went remarkably well. The trick is to have 3 or more friends help you, one on each corner, and use the right adhesive. DAP makes an adhesive that allows you to pick it back up and move it around if you need to, and you will need to. Here's an excellent article that tells everything you need to know http://www.superchevy.com/technical...le_vinyl_top_install_the_amd_chevelle_part_6/
Thanks guys! does anyone have any tips or tricks to remove the molding? I really worry I am gonna screw it up and then have to fix or source new ones? Also, any idea where would I get the levant grain in dark brown? I like the backing on the the one they used in the link for the chevy, I heard that fleece backed ones would encourage rust.
There is a tool to remove the winshield and rear window remoldings. It has a hook on the end and you basically just slide it under the molding, hook the clip and pull/pry it away from the molding until it pops up. You don't really have to remove the drip rail moldings but if you want to, whatever you do, don't let anyone talk you into using a can opener. They dent very, very easily and you will ruin them in no time. I can usually get them off by hand but it they need a little coaxing to start, slip a thin putty knife under the bottom edge of it to get it started. Start at the rear and always pull out from the bottom and carefully twist it to the top. Once you get it started it will come off without further use of the putty knife.
Awesome, thank you! would I be wrong to assume that it would be the last of the 4 in this picture? http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-windshield-door-trim-tool-set-38386.html
It is the 3rd from the left, the one that looks like it's pointing north #4 is for removing interior door handles and window cranks.
I got the new top in and all of the molding removed but these drip rails are giving me a hard time. it seems like the top is tucked under them. I have the rest of the top off, just strips around the drip molding are still there. The fisher body manual shows an image of a screw holding them in...anyone got any ideas?
well, I got it done. I ended up leaving the drip moldings in place. I am very happy with how it turned out. Thanks everyone for your help.
