1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice
New users Registered with a gmail address Attention All new Users 67-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recast Group buy

Defroster Duct Install

Discussion in 'The Big Chill' started by bherbert, Jun 22, 2020.

  1. bherbert

    bherbert Well-Known Member

    For my 70 GS.

    I have the gauge cluster, radio, glove box all the HVAC box and tubes out from behind the dash, so I found a replacement plastic defroster duct to replace my badly warped one that is in there.

    To get the old one out, It actually broke and i was able to get it out, but getting the new one in is a bear. Do I have to take the heater box out - and can I do that without having to remove the inner fender like you do for a heater core replacement? I've been reading the shop manual but removing it calls for pieces on both sides of the firewall to come out. I just need the box under the dash out, so I can get the duct in. Does just that piece come out?

    Anyone have any experience with this? Any help is greatly appreciated.

    Bob
     
    bherbert, Jun 22, 2020
    #1
  2. Utah455

    Utah455 Platinum Level Contributor

    I am in the process of doing all mine. O know I had issues. I believe I either lossened the heater box to tilt it enough to get the Y duct in. Or I just pulled the heater box back out. I know I had the heater box in and out three times while trying to put everything back.
    I do have my passenger fender popped on the bottom and rotated the fender well out so I can get to all the bolts.
     
    Utah455, Jun 22, 2020
    #2
  3. bherbert

    bherbert Well-Known Member

    So I need to loosen all the nuts and bolts on the firewall and under the dash to pull the box out enough to get the y-duct in. The manual says to drain radiator, disconnect inlet/outlet hoses for the heater core and everything else and "remove 4 nuts and 2 screws securing air condition heater assembly to dash and remove assembly." What could go wrong?

    Thanks for the reply.

    BH
     
    bherbert, Jun 22, 2020
    #3
  4. Utah455

    Utah455 Platinum Level Contributor

    Hey BH,

    If I remember correctly, I had to pull the heater box back out to get the Wye duct up there. I'm in the uphill of a frame off restoration, so I got no fluids left in my car, except the oil in the engine. Good luck and do some searching as well on V8, I know there is stuff out there, but here are my threads when I asked questions.

    http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?th...heat-core-box-connection.355404/#post-3040497

    http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?th...ll-to-firewall-need-help.358127/#post-3072593

    Nick
     
    Utah455, Jun 22, 2020
    #4
  5. bherbert

    bherbert Well-Known Member

    Thanks for sharing your plight - I will attempt later this week. Not looking forward to it.

    BH
     
    bherbert, Jun 22, 2020
    #5

Share This Page