1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Disc conversion

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by rcraig, May 19, 2010.

  1. rcraig

    rcraig It's all in the details..

    Got the Front drum brakes removed and the Front Disc brakes installed on my 72 Skylark (spindles, rotors,calipers, prop. valve(gm) and I have a question. The back brakes took a little time to bleed, front bled fine. The brake light came on in the instrument cluster and has not gone off (haven't driven other than around the yard yet). Any ideas why? The pedal is firm and the car stops fine.
     
  2. Steve Craig

    Steve Craig Gold Level Contributor

    Question: have you changed the master cylinder to a disc/drum unit?
     
  3. rcraig

    rcraig It's all in the details..

    Yes. MC changed to disc unit. Power booster not changed.
     
  4. GotTattooz

    GotTattooz Well-Known Member

    You might have an air bubble in the proportioning valve. You can either bleed it from the proportioning valve by cracking the lines at the valve, or stomp the brake pedal really hard a few times while bleeding to force the bubble out of the valve and down the lines.

    -Josh
     
  5. Ken Warner

    Ken Warner Stand-up Philosopher

    Pretty much what the guy above said. I've done this on several cars with fresh systems. Open one or both rear bleeders JAM the pedal to the floor, close the bleeder(s), repeat a few times then do the same to the front. This has always fixed it for me but your mileage may vary.

    regards
     
  6. N360LL

    N360LL milehi71Stage1

    The "combination valve" as GM refers to it seems to be the most likely problem. I did notice that you are still using a drum/drum booster. The disc/drum booster is different from the drum/drum booster. That may dontribute to some of the issue.
     
  7. gstewart

    gstewart Well-Known Member

    is the wire from the prop valve brake warning system plugged in?
     
  8. rcraig

    rcraig It's all in the details..

    Wires are plugged in and working properly. I will be working on it again tomorrow night and will re-bleed. Thanks for the ideas.
     
  9. Phil

    Phil It really *is* a 350...

    I ran into this problem after I swapped the discs from my totalled Skylark to my new one. I bled the brakes several times and the light didn't go out until I backed down the driveway and slammed the brake pedal a few times and the light went out.
     
  10. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    There is a rod that goes from the bottom of the sending unit ont the porp.valve. I have had to remove it and reset the switch manualy in the past to get the light to go out after it was activated.
     
  11. gstewart

    gstewart Well-Known Member

    wne u slam on the brakes, what i think u are doing is releasing the bleed plunger/switch in the prop valve. chassis manual explains it.
     
  12. Ken Warner

    Ken Warner Stand-up Philosopher

    So what happened?
     
  13. rcraig

    rcraig It's all in the details..

    re-bled from the valve, then each wheel -no change. Drove back and forth in the shop yard. After 4 hard stops, the light went out. The brakes feel good. The pedal is right there and is smooth.

    Thanks to everyone for the advice

    Craig
     
  14. Naranjalark70

    Naranjalark70 Well-Known Member

    just wondering did you use a conversion kit or junkyard parts? I'm looking to do this same thing soon and would love to know any perspective you have on it since you just finished.

    Thanks,
    Charlie
     

Share This Page