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Disc conversion

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by rcraig, May 19, 2010.

  1. rcraig

    rcraig It's all in the details..

    Got the Front drum brakes removed and the Front Disc brakes installed on my 72 Skylark (spindles, rotors,calipers, prop. valve(gm) and I have a question. The back brakes took a little time to bleed, front bled fine. The brake light came on in the instrument cluster and has not gone off (haven't driven other than around the yard yet). Any ideas why? The pedal is firm and the car stops fine.
     
    rcraig, May 19, 2010
    #1
  2. Steve Craig

    Steve Craig Gold Level Contributor

    Question: have you changed the master cylinder to a disc/drum unit?
     
    Steve Craig, May 19, 2010
    #2
  3. rcraig

    rcraig It's all in the details..

    Yes. MC changed to disc unit. Power booster not changed.
     
    rcraig, May 19, 2010
    #3
  4. GotTattooz

    GotTattooz Well-Known Member

    You might have an air bubble in the proportioning valve. You can either bleed it from the proportioning valve by cracking the lines at the valve, or stomp the brake pedal really hard a few times while bleeding to force the bubble out of the valve and down the lines.

    -Josh
     
    GotTattooz, May 19, 2010
    #4
  5. Ken Warner

    Ken Warner Stand-up Philosopher

    Pretty much what the guy above said. I've done this on several cars with fresh systems. Open one or both rear bleeders JAM the pedal to the floor, close the bleeder(s), repeat a few times then do the same to the front. This has always fixed it for me but your mileage may vary.

    regards
     
    Ken Warner, May 20, 2010
    #5
  6. N360LL

    N360LL milehi71Stage1

    The "combination valve" as GM refers to it seems to be the most likely problem. I did notice that you are still using a drum/drum booster. The disc/drum booster is different from the drum/drum booster. That may dontribute to some of the issue.
     
    N360LL, May 20, 2010
    #6
  7. gstewart

    gstewart Well-Known Member

    is the wire from the prop valve brake warning system plugged in?
     
    gstewart, May 20, 2010
    #7
  8. rcraig

    rcraig It's all in the details..

    Wires are plugged in and working properly. I will be working on it again tomorrow night and will re-bleed. Thanks for the ideas.
     
    rcraig, May 20, 2010
    #8
  9. Phil

    Phil It really *is* a 350...

    I ran into this problem after I swapped the discs from my totalled Skylark to my new one. I bled the brakes several times and the light didn't go out until I backed down the driveway and slammed the brake pedal a few times and the light went out.
     
    Phil, May 21, 2010
    #9
  10. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    There is a rod that goes from the bottom of the sending unit ont the porp.valve. I have had to remove it and reset the switch manualy in the past to get the light to go out after it was activated.
     
    Briz, May 21, 2010
    #10
  11. gstewart

    gstewart Well-Known Member

    wne u slam on the brakes, what i think u are doing is releasing the bleed plunger/switch in the prop valve. chassis manual explains it.
     
    gstewart, May 21, 2010
    #11
  12. Ken Warner

    Ken Warner Stand-up Philosopher

    So what happened?
     
    Ken Warner, May 24, 2010
    #12
  13. rcraig

    rcraig It's all in the details..

    re-bled from the valve, then each wheel -no change. Drove back and forth in the shop yard. After 4 hard stops, the light went out. The brakes feel good. The pedal is right there and is smooth.

    Thanks to everyone for the advice

    Craig
     
    rcraig, May 25, 2010
    #13
  14. Naranjalark70

    Naranjalark70 Well-Known Member

    just wondering did you use a conversion kit or junkyard parts? I'm looking to do this same thing soon and would love to know any perspective you have on it since you just finished.

    Thanks,
    Charlie
     
    Naranjalark70, May 27, 2010
    #14

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