Does anyone use a Mopar style master cylinder on their race car?

Been debating swapping to a non power master cylinder on my car now as I don't think a power brake booster and master cylinder will work,due to vacuum issues. I have 4 wheel Wilwood brakes on the car. I am thinking about the Wilwood master cylinder that is similar and used on Mopar cars. Part number 260-4894. Does anyone run that one? Wilwood suggests the use of a pushrod kit number 330-13914,but it looks like all I'd need is the u shaped piece.Kinda pricey for only 1 part, Is one of the pushrod supports still needed so the pushrod wont fall out?

 

I used the regular wilwood master on my setup. But i have seen plenty of cars at the track have Mopar style on the cars

 

I used one for a couple years without any issues 1 1 /16" bore size which willwood advised for my application

 

I used one for a couple years without any issues 1 1 /16" bore size which

 

The hole spacing is not wide enough to work without slotting on the GM A body

 

Wilwood has a new adapter you bolt to the body and has bolts to match the master cylinder. My main concern is the pushrod falling out I have seen a bracket that bolts to the firewall and keeps the rod in it's position,Just not sure if it works as good as they say.

 

I would just use a 69 Corvette master,... cheaper and direct bolt on,.. heavier but,..

 

We used a vette mc in our 69. It was a manual front disc rear drum master and thats what we were running on the car. Wilwood disc in front and drum in the rear.

 

The traditional wilwood master bolts right on, the rod stays in, your clevis fits right on......for mine the rods is just barely long enough.........I actually want to get a threaded sleeve and add a little length......I feel my pedal is just slightly lower than it was b4

They are not cheap like 200 pre covid, but if going this far in brakes why cheap ou now.

I know they have a 2:1 volume ratio front port to port too

 

I did have a Olds W30 manual master cylinder on my car with front disc and rear drums.. (I thought stopping my loaded tandem sallt truck took a long time to get stopped) and wasn't impressed. I probably wont mess with the Mopar style one now I did more research. Probably just will go with the standard one from Wilwood. I have their 4 wheel discs,why not just go with their MC..Trying to save some weight,but my old carcass is worth more than cheaping out..

 

I used a chevy S-10 manual unit, nice and light.

 

I've got one on my 64. No issues. Works as expected and won't ever rust.

 

What year S-10?
Chris

 

1985 or so

 

Never really understood why those ugly, big, and heavy brake master cylinder reservoir castings were used for so long in production.

 

Not sure if any of you had experience this or not but I used to run a bore of 1.1/8, then I changed to a 1 inch bore master and the pedal was easier to push on my 4 wheel disc manual brake set up. Same stopping power with less effort.
Fernando

 

Wilwood suggested to me to use the 7/8 bore for the 4 wheel discs.That includes the fronts I bought from you Fernando.

 

I would follow their recommendation, next time I need one I am going down to that size. It makes sense, more pressure and less volume. In my case it sure made it easier on the leg trying to stop at 139 mph.

Fernando

 

Yeah I understand completely. This motor is way more than anything I have ever owned or ran,thus the reason I am "over building"it.I believe 135 mph will be in my future...

 

My wilwood MC crapped out at BG one year, my friend turbodave that installed it said go get a Ford truck MC, I don't remember the number, but it's still there and works fine.