While I was working on the tank (see other thread) my drv side window got stuck on the last 5% rolling up. Windows been out ever since. All other windows do as they should from the main pwr windows switch in the drv side door panel. I pulled out the switch and chekcked for power: the test light comes on on both pins/wires related to the drv side window, so I guess the wiring and switch are ok. When operating the switch, the interior lights do NOT dim; they do, when the other windows are operated. Motor bad? Are they serviceable? While reman/used motors are obtainable (oouch, 150 at Fusick or 100 for rebuild at RA) I read somewhere replacing it might turn out a bit challenging. Is there a write-up somewhere? I checked my 72 ASM, as well as my 72 and my 67 repair manual, the door panel removal procedure isn´t descibed anywhere, nor is there anything about power windows at all. I have worked on Ford and Corvette pwr window motors in the past, the Ford was easy and dirt cheap, on the Corvette the full assembly needed to come out, IIRC.
Yeah, I looked on YT, closed I found was something on the door panels of a 70, but not too much help. Nothing on the motor so far.
Exactly! I can't tell you how many power window motors I got working by holding the button and punching the door panel where the motor is. Sometimes you have to actually tap it with a hammer. Running power to it will tell you for sure. Both wires are power. One wire is for up, the other for down. The motor grounds through the case.
Make sure that the wires aren't partially broken in the boot between the door and the pillar. If you only have one or two unbroken strands, you'll still have 12v at the switch, but it can't carry any amperage. Unplug the motor and use a halogen bulb as a test light at the motor connector. A regular test light will light with only one or two strands, a halogen bulb will not.
Nailhead, thanks for the template! I know FORD had dimples in the sheet metal where the bolts are, not sure what Buick did at the time. Yeah, I tried slamming the door and knocking on the motor with the button depressed, but nothing happend . I am not surprised though, becuase the weatherstrips had been replaced in the doors at some point and the glass on the drv side is VEERY tight, so tight it´s better to roll up the window fist, then shut the door. This might be reason why the motor went out (burned up?) anyways, too much stress bringing up the window. No, I have not put power to the motor yet as I have been reluctant to take off the door panel for further checks. I might get a new motor first, so I don´t have to mess with the door panel two or three times. Not sure if I understand the halogen test light, wouldn´t it be easier to simply use a multimeter and check for +12V?
You can have 12v as long as there is one strand of wire not broken, but the window won't operate because one strand of wire can't carry any amperage. Why would you order a part if you aren't sure that the old one is bad? If you don't want to remove the door panel two or three times, I'm sure that you won't want to replace a motor, especially if it's not bad. Diagnose it properly before ordering parts!
Pull the door panel. The 71+ big cars have an upper panel that needs to come off first. If I remember correctly, there are phillips head screws that hold the corners down on the top half. There are "nails" that hold in the center section that you just have to pull out, and then you can lift off the top half of the panel. You will may have the remote mirror control to contend with, but if it's a Limited, the control may be in the arm rest. Once top half is off, there are screws that go across the top of the lower half of the panel. Remove those. Also check for screws around the actual hand hole where you pull door shut(this may be in the form of a strap on the top half of the door....in that case, it needs to be removed to get the top half off). The rest of the lower section is attached with plastic clips around the sides and bottom of the door. They just pull out with force. You may break a couple, but parts stores sell them new. Last thing is to remove any wiring attaching power windows, locks, and seat control. Once removed, you will be able to see inside door. FIRST thing to check is the connection at the motor to see if it has come off the motor itself. Then you should do as Jason says and put power to the wires at the switch. You can find which wire has full time power and jump it with a piece of wire to the UP or DOWN wire for the driver front door.
Thanks for any comment and instruction. I got my Fisher body manual and pulled the panel today. I have power (yes, still only testlight) down to the motor, but wasn´t able to undo the connector. I understand there are two "buttons" to depress, but still couldn´t get it off. May try again later and put +12V directly to the motor, if I get the conector off. As for the motor, can it be simply pulled out when the two bolts are off or do I really have to diassemble the regulator assembly first? I might have overlooked the write-up, if it is in the manual and the pictures there are really dark, most likely copies of copies of copies, so not a big help.
Took off the door panel once more and smacked the motor with a hammer while pushing the switch in the up position. Window rolled up completely once and motor went out again. Will order replacement. Still can´t take off the connector from the motor. Zip-tied the two tangs down and pulled like hell, still didn´t come off. This is not a twist-off connector, is it? Will cut wires and see what will happen.
The halogen bulb will put a load on the wire and if it only has a few strands, it will be dim. The connector has probably gotten hot from a loose connection and semi welded the connectors together. Be carful the plastic connector will be brittle..
Finally the new power window motor arrived. Before taking the door apart in vain once more, I tested the motor on the bench. +12V from my battery booster to either of the two pins in the connectors (black and yellow wire) and ground to the housing, the threaded mounting screw holes or - at least in the case of my new motor - to the ground connector should get the motor going, right? The + pin (black or yellow wire) determines the direction (up or down), correct? Well, the new motor doesn´t turn. Neither way. My booster supplies 13,1 V. Am I missing something? "New" motor shot, I guess.
I got the motor to work. I guess it´s completely unprofessional, but I jumpered +12V and ground from the booster (sorry, Adam) to the two wires on the motor. I got some sparks (not too bad), and when I put ground to the motor housing afterwards, the motor spun as it should! Might have freed up something inside. The motor also reversed the direction when putting +12V to the other wire. Strange? Maybe. The motor is in the car now and it works! One thing I noticed: to get the motor out of the car you need to drill openings in the door sheet metal to reach the motor mounting bolts. I tried to use the template for C 39 style front doors in the Fisher body manual, but found the vertical measurements for the mounting bolts completely off! I ended up "guessing" where to drill and was succesful enough to reach the three bolts.
