1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

el. window.

Discussion in 'Sparky's corner' started by per, Mar 20, 2004.

  1. per

    per Well-Known Member

    The passenger side window on my 68 Riv, is going veeery slowly up, but at double speed down, (compared with the one on the drivers side).
    What could be the problem?

    Per.

    :beer
     
  2. tlivingd

    tlivingd BIG BLOCK, THE ANTI PRIUS

    bushings and shaft in the motor may have corroded and/or the grease dried out. on an 89 chevy van I was able to pull the motor apart and clean and regrease the bushings. I regreased the bushings with silicone grease (dupont Sil-glide) the window hawls up and down now. I haven't had to do it on a buick yet but it can't be too diffrent. there will be brushes that run on the commutator (part of the center rotating part of the motor.) these are held against the commutator with springs. usally there are holes in the area between the commutator and the brushes, and allow a small wire (paper clip) to slide between commutator and the brushes if they were pushed back this allows one to reassemble the motor.
     
  3. yuk

    yuk Well-Known Member

    on your window regulator, there is a coiled up spring. it is supposed to help your window motor raise the window back to the up position .... its also sopposed to make the window go down at a moderate speed by pushing against the motor's force while the window is going down (hence the name "regulator")....when the spring gets weak (or breaks) it aint helpin you raise the window ...AND it is no longer pushing against your window motors attempt to lower the window..... so the window ends up creeping up and flying down...
    replacing the spring is extreemly difficult and can be somewhat dangerous.
    replacing the whole regulator is the actual repair.:TU:
     
  4. yuk

    yuk Well-Known Member

    the buick master parts book shows the regulator part number to be 9716588

    it shows the same regulator being used from 66-70 on the riv. it doesnt show the same regulator being used on any other buicks but olds toronados might have the same one if i had my guess.

    if you help the motor out by pulling up some on the window while you are putting the window up ... you will be doing the motor a BIG favor.
    as for it going down fast .... that probably wont do harm to anything.

    im about 99percent sure that the regulator is your problem....but the freshinin up the motor as mentioned by tlivingd cant hurt and could help the window work better.

    a good test of the regulator spring is to remove the window motor(be careful because the window might fall (on you)once you remove the motor which would tell you right away that the regulator spring is bad) . if the window tries to stay in place as you slide it to different positions, the better the regulator.... if the window wont stay anywhere, and just keeps falling down after you pull it up and let go ..... you have a real bad spring.

    cars that have spent more of their life with the windows down seem to weaken the spring the worst from the spring being more compressed more of the time.

    i would think cars from colder climates would most likely make better donor cars from the windows being up more.
     
  5. per

    per Well-Known Member

    :TU:

    Thanks for reply. Both of you are probably correct. I'll have a look at it and let you know later.
    BUT, Today the instrument cluster is going back in after wiring harness change.
    I just hope I have enough fingers to get it all sorted out.

    Per.



    :beer
     

Share This Page