Elec. or Mechanical Gauge

Looking for suggestions on which "under dash" oil pressure gauge to use. Main question is which type to use, mechanical with copper tubing (I've heard the nylon tubing is not good) or is it best to use the electrical type with a sending unit. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

Use copper tubing

Mechanical is the best and do use the copper tubing . Also a good idea is to install a brass tee and install both the mechanical sending unit and the original electric sending unit so you can still have the idiot lite.



:laugh: :TU:

 

Just went down this road...here's what I found:

Mechanical gauges supposedly are faster-responding than electrical. I don't buy it, but even so you're talking about a matter of fractions of a second, so I don't feel it's that big a deal. Either type will tell you in plenty of time...after the fact.

Mechanical gauges = worries about leaking tubes dripping on carpet or opening up and hosing oil around. Not that's exactly a common problem, but...had this in a '68 Skylark, one drop a month isn't much, but it's OIL in the carpet.

Electrical gauges can be mounted anywhere you can run/splice a wire to, so if you decide to move them, it can be easier to do.

Electrical gauges normally only have 90 degree sweep, mechanical ones usually have 270 degrees, more gauge 'face' for more graduation markings.

[Gripe - why do most gauges (either type) come in 0-100psi? most cars run 40-50 psi max, this leaves you with half the gauge face unused and meaningless. Like 140mph speedometers in H*nd*s...marketing pukes...]

Given all that, I really like electrical gauges.

HOT TIP - If you go with electrical gauges, DON'T BUY FROM AN AUTOMOTIVE SUPPLIER!!! Go to your local Marine supply, all Marine gauges are electrical, and they're HALF PRICE or Automotive gauges, and often they're WAY better made! I picked up some top-quality electrical (made in USA) gauges (oil pressure, volts, water temp) this summer for $ about $100, would have been more like $250 through Summit/Jegs. First time I've EVER seen anything Marine be cheaper than Automotive. (Think I'll post this over in the Wrenching Tips forum...)

Have Fun!

James

 

i totally agree with jamyers, but would like to add.

if you ever are one the road and have a voltage problem like your alt lays down ....the electrical may not read correctly till you get your alt fixed ...
over the years i have known several people have trouble with mech gauges leaking or the line stress/breakin from fatigue or somethin kinking or whackin th line.

i had a 72-ish impala with a 400cuin motor in it with S/W gauges the previous owner had installed. i pulled th motor out and put it in a 55 chevy with a different set of S/W gauges (but looked exactly the same as the impala ones) in it. oil pressure runnin down th road at about 2200 rpm read about 3-5 pounds more in the 55 than in the impala. ..... i was just happy neither set said zero.

first hand electric gauge horror stories are far and few and usually point back to poor install or a cheap after market sending unit.
i like electric.

 

Thanks for the suggestions, ideas, and replies so far.
Looks like it's still 50/50 on the recommendations, and this is why I was asking. I'm planning on putting a "T" in as Bruce suggested so I can keep the "idiot" light working (just in case). I do like the display of the mechanical type, especially when engine is at idle.

Thanks

 

I vote mechanical. Harder to install, but worth the ease of reading. If your fittings leak, then you've installed them wrong.

 

I Agree with mechanical:Smarty:

 

have both types in my cars- here's my recommendation

I have mechanical in my GS and electrical in my TR. I like the mechanical much better and if I did it all over, I'd opt for mechanical in the TR too! As Larry and others said, mechanicals are much easier to read and the sweep range is broader so it can give you a more approximate value than guessing where the pointer is on an electrical gauge. Also, I'll join the gang on "T"ing the oil temp so to use rallye pack gauges. If your putting this on a Skylark or GS with the factory cast iron intake manifold, you will need to put the coolant temp sender on passenger side port as there's slag or whatever on the DS that prevents the probe from going down. AND.... by all means, use teflon sealant on your threads if you ever want to remove it. Just ask me how I know..... did several hrs battle with that thermovac switch! :af:

 

For me where the gauges are is more important than mechanical or electric. Gauges mounted under the dash are easy to miss, you have to develop the habit of looking down there. I have electric gauges because I want them closer to my line of site. I have the oil pressure gauge in the clock housing, Volts and Temp are in a vent block off plate non AC cars have.

I don't read the numbers on the gauges during driving, I just scan the needles. I know where they normally point and can quickly see if something is out of whack. You'll see race cars with the gauges set at all angles, this is done so that the needles point straight up when things are OK. Any needle not at 12 o'clock gets attention.

I use electric because running mechanical up where I want the gauges would be a nightmare, both for installation and repair if required.

 

When I spoke with an engineer from Autometer about this several years ago his opinion was that for a street car use any of the real autometer gages. When I asked about saving a few bucks and getting the Autogage brand he said he'd spend the x-tra cash but it was my car. At one time he said the quality and reliability of the electrical gages was nowhere near as good as mechanical but that was not the case anymore.


regards

 

I put electrics in mine, so far so good. But I've always wondered why electrics have less sweep. Just to let you know they're less accurate? o No:

 

i wonder what he would have said if were a spokesperson for autogage ...or stewart warner....or cyberdyne......or cal custom .....or jc whitney LOL.

 

I go for the Mechanial gauges,for all the reasons previously stated. Spend the extra cash,on the good stuff and you won't regret it:Smarty:

 

Mechanical

I also say go mechanical. As long as you use the copper tubing and take your time with the fittings, you shouldn't worry about leaks. Mine haven't leaked one singe drop. I used a brass T-fitting coming out the block to keep my idiot light as well. Another trick is to buy some proper size vac. hose and slit it down the side and slip it over the copper oil line. Gives a cleaner look and some protection.

Hey 73Centurion, I hear ya. I did put mech. gauges in my dash, and it took a lot of time and patience and contorting of body.

 

Here's a pic showing the vac. hose over the copper tubing.

 

Mechanical with a good copper tubing kit. As mentioned if they leak they are ethier cheap or the ferrules are installed wrong. I have had several and never had a leak.