Assuming this kit comes with instructions on how to properly set the electric choke. Can someone post them?
Got the electric choke installed list night. Fired it up today after work. Made all the adjustments. Very simple product and the video made it even easier. Need to refresh the carb. Replace the accelerator pump for todays fuel.
Be aware that not all of the accl pump seals are ethanol compatible. I sell the only one in this industry that is lifetime warranty in any fuel. Most of the "blue" seals out there are nothing more than soft blue silicone from offshore sources and swell up quickly in contact with ethanol. Below are pics of three seals I tested recently during a seminar I did. With students here to witness the results I removed a pump seal from a NAPA kit, and from a Walker kit. I also took my seal and put them all in E-10 pump fuel at the beginning of the class. A few hours later we pulled them out to see what happened. I think the pics speak for themselves......my seal is the bottom one in the pic.....
I only use and sell the modern accl pump assemblies. They have a much shorter and stronger duration spring, plus the short-lip seal with a garter spring under it. The early accl pumps (long lip seal and no garter spring) were phased out by the mid-1970's even though some showed up in Marine carburetors into the early 1980's. I would NEVER use or recommend the early style pumps to be used in one of these carburetors for any reason. Anyhow, one has to keep in mind here that there is no feed check-ball or feed passage to the accl pump bore on a Q-jet. So ALL the fuel that gets under the accl pump has to make it past the seal on the upstroke of the pump. When the pump seal swells up and gets tight in the bore accl pump function is effected. The most common symptom is difficult cold starts after sitting. Evaporation and drain-back lowers the fuel level and when the accl pump cup is swollen or tight in the bore we get poor pump shot and difficult start-ups on a cold engine. The FIRST thing everyone on every Forum tells you is that the bottom plugs in the carb are leaking, which is absolutely pure BS 99 percent of the time. Think about it this way. IF I sent you a completely/correctly rebuild carburetor and it's bone dry, shouldn't the engine roar to life as soon as fuel hit the bowl and you are pumping the accl to put some fuel in the engine? So having an empty carburetor at most just requires a few short cranking cycles (if you have an engine driven mechanical pump) to get fuel back in the bowl and the engine fired up, empty carburetor or not........