Factory AC upgrade

I want to convert my factory AC in my 67 Sportwagon to 134. I would like to keep the original compressor. This car still has the OEM hoses, would like to update these. What does one do for the connections to the compressor? I am not concerned with originality. All the original lines I'm thinking replacing the rubber/metal tube with new rubber lines. I know the drier needs to be changed out, any other recomendations for a trouble free unit?

 

Start here...http://www.buickperformanceclub.com/ac.htm

 

I dont know if you've ever had your A/C working or not but ... I drove my Sporty with non-working A/C out to Ohio for the BPG Nats last year in 90+* heat. While out there, friends brought what was needed to R&R the system (New compressor/Evap) and we charged it up with R12

It was so cold coming home even on low blower speed that I'd actually have to turn it off for a bit and it was still very hot outside.

... NOTHING chills like the good old R12

 

While I totally agree with Alan that R12 is best, these systems can also be made to perform excellent with R134a. The work needed to seal and refurbish the system is about the same and the difference in refrigerant cost these days is about $50 or so. It's a judgement call.
-Your original lines can be rebuilt with new rubber as long as the metal parts are in good shape.
-You will need to have the POA valve tested and calibrated for whichever refrigerant you choose. They should always be tested because there's no way to tell if they work correctly until the system is fully charged. Same goes for the Expansion Valve.
Classic Auto Air in Tampa, along with some other suppliers can handle all of those jobs for you.

-The compressor shaft seal should also be replaced. It's not a matter of "if" it will leak, it's a matter of "when". If there's less than about .002" shaft deflection, the troublesome ceramic seal set can be replaced with a much more reliable neoprene seal.

-If you find that there's too much play in your compressor shaft to reseal it reliably, stay away from rebuilt A6 units. I'm a big fan of the A6, but the quality of the available remans today is pretty bad. Even the new units seem to be plagued with shaft seal issues. If you find that you need to replace the compressor, look seriously at the Pro6ten. It's a Sanden based, direct replacement for the A6.

Good Luck.

I love those Sports Wagons, BTW.:beer

 

There is an R-12 replacement on the market which does not require all the changes that TC-134A entails. Check into that, if you don't want R-12 because of the expense. You can't beat R-12, really, because you have to increase evaporator and condenser sizes to compensate for the lower specific heat capacity of TC-134A. But, these cars were designed with the worst weather in mind, so it is possible that if where you live doesn't get blazing hot, the lesser capable refrigerant will work.

As far as getting freezing cold, this is an example of how well the systems work with R-12. If you look in your owner's manual, you will find that you can temper the cold by moving the heater lever to add a little heat...seriously.

 

Freeze 12. I've heard good and bad reviews of it but had it in mine for 3 years and have had no problems with it. Is it as efficient as R12? Maybe, maybe not, but it does work because most of the time my wife is asking me to turn it down.

 

Freeze12 is really good stuff for it's intended purpose. It's a blend of R134a and R142b that, in short, allows you to do a a quick R134a conversion without flushing the system and changing the oil. The R134a does the cooling and the R142b carries the mineral oil through the system. If it works good for you, then you're Golden...Oldie65. :TU: (sorry for the play on words, I couldn't resist:grin.

I use Freeze12 to test the R12 systems that I rebuild. I have the customer bring the vehicle back to me in ~2 weeks or so, then evac/recharge with R12 once I know the system is tight. I've had MANY tell me that the system works great and there's no need for the added expense to install the R12. I live in northern Ohio, though.
The difference between R134a (Freeze12) and R12 becomes more defined in more arid places like Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, the Deep South, etc.