Fan Clutch Problem

Discussion in 'The Big Chill' started by RJS, Sep 4, 2009.

  1. RJS

    RJS Silver Level contributor

    I ordered a new fan clutch Torqflo P/N 922797 from AutoZone because mine was shot. I took the suggestion from that article written by George Nenadovich. The problem is that the water pump shaft is too long to fit in the new fan clutch. Anyone else have this problem with this part?? The clutch is listed as severe duty and boy it looks it but doesn't fit. Going to drive over to the closest AutoZone tomorrow to see about returning it and maybe buying what they have in stock for a 455. This one was a special order, Thanks Ron
     
  2. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    I tried a Hayden clutch with the same problem. I cut a 1/8" or so off the pump shaft with a grinder and it worked fine. More work than you should have to do however. I will be using a GM clutch this time which fits like it should but they are tough to find. Look around for a different brand. Maybe try NAPA. Way more work than you should have to do but cutting does work.
     
  3. RJS

    RJS Silver Level contributor

    Dave I almost took the cutoff wheel to it but stopped myself. I picked up a HD from Napa that fit fine but isn't as "beefy" as the AutoZone clutch. Car runs a little cooler maybe so I'll probably buy a 4 core radiator for it.

    With my Mopar I know who to buy what from but with the GS I'm on a learning curve. Where should I buy the best 4 core for the best price?? Also I want it to look correct so no aluminum... Ron
     
  4. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    Ron, I know you said no aluminum but check these guys out. They look stock if you paint them black. They told me I could and I did. It worked great and looks stock. The aftermarket 4 cores look no more stock than these do. THis raadiator kept my car cooler than a 4 core ever did. All Buciks of the era only used 3 core anyway so no 4 core will ever be correct. I think this aluminum radiator is only 2 core but the nature of the aluminum and the fact that cores are huge it works great. Tanks are about the same size as 4 core. They have the flat top filler area as well and tell them you want stock overflow tube position. They cost $500 but the aftermarket 4 cores cost about the same. Someone is making Harrison logoed repro 4 cores but they cost $700. Do a search. I am going close to concourse on my car but will still use one ofthe alums from them. Here it is www.chevellecooling.com. Eastwood sells radiator paint.
     
  5. RJS

    RJS Silver Level contributor

    Dave I did some homework before you replied and found the Harrison replacements :dollar: and I've always used Eastwood paints on my radiators :beer so I'm up on that part too but... That site you posted is interesting
    http://www.chevellecooling.com/m3_view_item.html?m3:item=SKYLARK%20G%2FS%20A-68%2F71-A%20%20AUTO%20TRANS

    I checked the rad. in my car and it doesn't have the Harrison logo so I'll assume it was changed out at one time. I think when I pull the trigger I may just follow your lead with this aluminum unit and some paint.
    Two questions though: will the trans lines just screw in or will I have to use adapters to size it down, and are the rubber 4 row saddles available/which vender?? Guess I could just ask the seller about that along with the overflow nipple change.:3gears: Thanks Ron
     
  6. RJS

    RJS Silver Level contributor

    Oh and who sells the 4 row rubber saddles? Need 4 of them I assume... Thanks again Ron Sannino
     
  7. 73Electra 225

    73Electra 225 Well-Known Member

    If you still decide to go for the HD clutch, you just have to take it to a drill press and bore out the hole a bit deeper. Thats what I had to do on mine. Luckily I had a neighbor with a press, took all of 60 seconds.
     
  8. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    Ron, the trans cooler lines fit right in with no problems. Make sure you tell him it should be the one with the tank with the bigger cooler because the lines are further apart. He should know that anyway. I would not bother with the 4 core rubber pads. I just Eyeballed mine and gutted them out at the thick end with a sharp knife. It takes a while to do all four and think before you cut them. The nice thing is that this way the rubber nibs go in all the correct holes. (correct 71 rubbers have part #s with 777 and 776 at the end. 2 of each are used)The aftermarket 4 core rubbers may not have the two nubs in the correct places and may be based on a 70 which are different because they position the radiator in different place. I think Cars www.oldbuickparts.com may sell the bigger ones if you want them. You will also need to get a stock type petcock if you get the aluminum radiator as it does not have one with it. Get the nice stock type with the fluted end. I think Cars sells them as well but NAPA may have as well.
     

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