Not at all! I see what you're saying. The gap on the front now matches the rear so I like that but if I do end up loosening everything again, I'll definitely try a larger front gap with these new shims in place and see if that makes that line straighter. I also did some repair on that door as the front of it got crushed in so it could definitely just be my fault on the repair :-/
It's tight enough at the bottom of that door that I would be super careful jacking it up, as mentioned above... Is this the Turbo Chevy v6 car? How about an engine photo.
I did try jacking it up on the front driver side to check the gap at the driver door/fender. I figured that'd be the worst case? Might've tightened up that bottom gap a bit but I could still open the door so I think I'm in the clear unless there's something else to check Appreciate the interest! Here's the engine. It's the original chevy 250 inline 6. Ignore the wiring harness nest lol. Bored .40 over with forged pistons, Garrett GTX3582R Gen 2 ball bearing turbo, SPA turbo manifold, roller rockers, Lunati turbo cam, 4 barrel offenhauser intake, Holley Super Sniper throttle body fuel injection, 6AN EFI fuel system and tank, modified my HEI for timing control via the super sniper, intercooler, enlarged valves, lump port installed (chevy I6 head airflow improvement thing), ARP head studs, attached to a Muncie 4 speed. I know I'm running old tires without a posi but it'll break traction at 40mph on 93 octane at 11psi!
