first build, couple questions

This has probably been covered a ton but I just have a couple questions about my first buick build.

The block is a 73 and head 70's. This I believe should be just fine. Are the 73's oil passages already enlarged?
I got a parts/build quote from the shop and they want to use a high volume pump. I don't want that right? I just want the booster plate? They also quoted for 10:1 Federal Mogul forged pistons. These ok or should I look at the new ones that just became available?
They quoted for EPI lifters? I've never heard of them, I read some threads not too long about about lifter issues and TA had lifters to solve that. I should go that route I expect?
Clevite main and rod bearings ok?
I'll specify that they use TA's grooved cam bearings.
They choose a Crane cam. I believe its the Powermax series?
218/276 duration and 448/464 lift and 112 center I think is what it is. This ok or is there something better from TA?
Dual TA valve springs or the Comp springs they choose for me?
I also thought I read that Buick heads did not required hardened valve seats due to high nickle content? Am I correct?
I've done alot of reading and the machince shop did spend alot of time trying to find me the best deals on parts but they cheaped out on some stuff so I think I want to make a few changes to what they came up with.

This engine is going in a 70 Wildcat. I was hoping for 450 to 475hp. Also would a 2500 stall be unreasonable?

I guess thats more than a couple questions, but I wanted to cover all my bases. Its sort of tough living in the far north and trying to make all this co-ordinated.

Edit: Forgot to mention I planned on using the SP1 or if its available when I get this all sorted out the SPX.

Thanks for your time


Corey
:laugh:

 

Yeah Corey, you've been reading...

:TU:

You are right, NO high vol oil pump, yes on the booster. I would buy ALL the parts from TA. They have MANY, MANY cams, HD rod and main bearings along with coated dual gr cam bearings, the pistons, lifters, the oil pump shim kit for correct clearence.....Give Mike or Dave a call, they will help you pick out a cam for your specific needs (that's what I did, I think I have the TA 310 cam). Don't forget a strong timing chain and a deep oil pan too, and at that HP, you may want to look at roller rockers & stronger rods.

And no, you do NOT need hardened valve seats on Buick heads (so that will save you some money)!:TU:

 

Dan is correct, but I'll add:

Yes, the 73's oil passages are already enlarged.

Use TA's adjustable oil pressure regulator and screw it in until about 3/8" of threads are showing.

2500 stall converter is OK, but a little tight for your engine combo and car weight. 3000 stall will really get you moving! But be warned, the extra revving it'll do to get you moving takes a little getting used to.

Use TA's lifters. That duration spread seems really wide. 230/240 works well in heavy cars. My TA# 288-94H is really nice for our big cars.

The best way to get those kinds of HP and TQ numbers is with head porting!!!!!!! Don't scrimp here. What heads will you use and what's been done to them? Stage1 valves?

What rockers will you be using? If you can afford it, rollers are sweet. If not, use the stamped steel 455 rockers and stock length pushrods. The cast aluminum rockers look nice, but aren't as strong as the steel ones.

430 rockers have a higher ratio, but require custom pushrods, or adjustable "hybrid" pushrods. I have the latter and will be having custom rods made. The adjustable rods kind of scare me, as much as I beat the snot out if my Riv.

YES! Use TA's 1125 dual valve springs. Their open and closed pressure is right on the money, where a lot of Stage1 springs have way too much open pressure. You have to have the heads machined to accept them. And you break in your engine with just the outer spring, then add the inner spring after breakin is complete. Prevents unnecessary cam wear.

Also, use EOS during breakin (I use it with every oil change).

 

Thanks

The car is going to be a mostly daily driver with some Firday nights at the track. That only happens a 4/5 times a summer where I live.

I had planned on lots of head porting and Stage 1 valves are going to be used.

Planned on using TA's roller rockers as well already.

Thanks again

Corey

 

Don't forget bearing clearence

Racebuicks sez keep um tight, except I don't recall the exact #.ou: I need to know too, cause I'm about ready to start assembly too. Mike, were are ya?:bglasses:

Ok, I did a search. Mike used 0.0015" and Jim W. shoots for 0.0020" on his street engines. As those numbers increase, the oil pressure will start to decrease.

 

The difference in the years for the heads and block bring one thing to mind:

The 1973 block is a "double scallop" block, and the heads are from an engine with a single scallop. This poses no problem IF you use the double scallop head gaskets, I beleive.

Buick did make a small change in the block by 1973. It's minor, and all the parts still work, but it's something to be aware of. Just make sure that the head gaskets you use are going to be the right ones.


EOS??

What's that?

o No:


About the only thing other than what's been said is to use a good engine lube when rebuilding, and don't forget to buy some anti-seize.

Anyone else besides me use Lubri-plate? My machinist swears by it and I have to say I liked it a lot. he gave me a large tube after he did my machine work. I used the whole darn thing...turns out that tube would have lasted a pro about 7 engines:laugh:

 

EOS

Is a heavy metal additive the GM uses to break in new engines. It helps prevent scuffing. You can do a search on it and find out more if you like. It seems most builders use it, and a few that don't, but even the ones that don't say it is not a bad idea to use it during the break in. :bglasses:

 

Correct. EOS is available at all GM dealer parts counters. Some may not stock it, but most should.

 

And yes, one and a half to two thousandths clearance on rods and mains. (.0015 to .002)