Hey guys long time lurker decided to start posting with a question. Ive got a 63 buick riviera and im pulling the motor to regasket the whole motor as well as check all the clearances and fix any problems that I find. Ive rebuilt a sbc before but I was wondering if there is any particular problems or special procedures when rebuilding a nailhead. As well is there any good literature on the nailheads? Ive found quite a bit of information on the internet but thus far no books or anything besides the factory assembly manual which i intend on buying. Thanks. Zuk
Hope you get lots of information on this post. I'm looking at a Nailhead project myself! Lots of luck. So far the biggest thing that I've found is that there is nothing cheap about a nailhead.
Well... An "SBC" as you refer to it, is a slop bucket compared to a nail. I just finished a 66 401 for an Electra. The biggest problems I encountered was finding a half-decent machine shop that knew what they were looking at. Once this was done, they were able to rebuild the heads, and do a class-A boring job for me. The other problem was finding half decent parts. I made the mistake of buying a kit from a large nation-wide distributor and they never checked the lifters, nor did I, and I almost killed a completely rebuilt and expensive engine. Here's a primer, not too much different from any other engines. Pistons are press-fit, just like a Chev. There are a few sources for them, same with rings. Rods are hard to find, get them re-sized. The crank is forged, treat it with care. Heads are pretty good, but can suffer bad oiling if the rockers aren't cleaned up. Rocker-arms are usually aluminium, and don't respond well to excessive spring loads. There are plenty of guys here that know more about how to trick up a head than I do, so don't be afraid to ask. Never line bore a nailhead because you could wind up with a sloppy chain. Don't forget the oil slinger! (I knew a guy who did, and he hammered his engine to junk inside of an hour) Make sure you replace or rebuild the oil pump, these engines need all the oil they can get. They oil better than the later family of engines, but still have problems getting it to the heads. I wouldn't recommend going with hardened seats in the valves, the seats are too close to water to try and grind them out. Leave them alone. When buying parts, make sure they're from a reputable company. Don't buy cheap parts, you'll only wind up pulling it apart again. Make sure if you're using a stock cam that the lifters are flat-bottomed, and all the same size. There's a C-clip at the back end of the motor that prevents the cam from waddling out, make sure you don't wreck it or lose it. If you don't already own a good torque wrench, buy one, and follow the manufacturer's specs to the letter. Especially with the front harmonic balancer bolt. This must be torqued to 200 or whatever pounds the book specifies. After-market waterpumps all seem to suffer from shaft failure in a short while. Be carefull when you put on the alternator belt, - leave it a bit loose. The water manifold between the heads has an O ring going into the timing cover; - be carefull removing this. Replace it with a new one and goop the s--t out of it when installing it, otherwise it'll leak. The timing cover is another animal to be handled with some care; - the waterpump bolts have this alarming tendancy to set-up and sieze, and of course they all snap out; I hope you're good with a drill press and a tap and die set. Buy the neoprene replacements for the rope seals, unless you've got a fair bit of experience at setting them up, they'll almost assuredly leak. Above all, rebuilding one of these things requires a bit of measuring, and setting things to factory specs. My experience with a SBC has always been "whatever, it'll run", and sure enough it usually did. A Buick is a bit more finicky though. If the heads, pistons, and bearing clearances are all correct, the engine will run well for a long time. Slip up and it'll come apart. There are a couple of great guys here with a lot of knowledge, far more that I have, (I've been building Buicks for 25 years) so don't be afraid to ask.
Nice summary Marc! The Buick chassis service manual is the best book out there for rebuilds. Melling still makes oil pumps and timing chain sets. Fel-pro for gaskets. Check valve-guide wear while you are at it. Guides press out/in to replace. There are some GREAT articles here, check it out! http://www.webrodder.com/index.php?page=showStories&search=nailhead
Don't forget the plugs at the ends of the oil galley. The lifters will not pump up. I learned that one the hard way. Dan
ANY engine, built poorly, will make poor power, die prematurely, smoke and/or leak. Even your "slop bucket" sbc. One thing I agree with is the comment about the flat-bottom lifters. Unlike every other engine I can think of, the Nailhead truly does have "FLAT" bottom lifters--the "flat tappets" on other engine families actually have a slight radius to the bottom; and they're intended to run on a cam lobe with a few degrees of taper; and in a lifter bore that's offset from the cam lobe a small amount. This is to assure that the lifters spin in the bore to provide even wear to the lifter bottom. Buick didn't do that with the Nailhead. I think it was a mistake--but--there isn't much you can do about it now. Which makes me wonder if the cam companies currently grinding cams for a Nailhead still remember to NOT taper the cam lobe. Wouldn't hurt to call 'em and ask!
Hi from a Newbie. If you go to the "reference" section of Team Buick's site, and scroll to "Library", you'll be able to access a few manuals, including the 1957's.------------Sorry, I'm not yet able to post links.
Thanks for all the info so far everyone. Its been very helpful so far. Im a heavy duty mechanic but dont get much chance at engine work in my shop so while I understand the basic theory im still working on applying my knowledge and transferring it from basically diesel engines. 66electrafied Im also from near the edmonton area what machine shop did you end up using? Also Does anyone have the part number for the neoprene replacement seals as well as a source for them? Thanks. Zuk
Zuk, I have the seals in stock. Along with the ability to get you the nec. parts & many hours of info. Sorry I don't type so a call would be best.
I went to "Best Engine Rebuilders" in the west-end, 780 451-1919. These guys seem to know how to play with older engines. They've done my Buick and a 53 Oldsmobile for me, and both engines turned out beautifully. They aren't the cheapest, but they are good. They also have some good parts contacts, incase your motor needs some interesting parts. They will do Hi-Po too. Another place to go to is Ames Automotive, they deal with old cars exclusively, and they recommended Best to me in the first place. Neoprene seals are available from CARS out of New Jersey, look on-line at their catalog, they'll have the up-to-date number.
The rear seals may be replaced with Buick V-6 Neoprene seals, and the timing chain cover seal is 400-455 Buick front seals. Federal Mogul part number 474272, or CR Services part number 19786. You can probably find these at your local jobber.
