Any trick on installing a rear passenger side freeze plug on a 70 GS 350 while the motor is in the car? I'm trying a steel 1.5 inch and I'm hammering on a socket in the cup and I can't seem to get it to go in there. Just hit it harder? Are brass ones any easier? Starter is out but there still isn't enough room to get a good angle on it. Any tricks are greatly appreciated. Bob
Not having good room to swing a hammer is tough. The other method I've used is getting a block of wood, like a small piece of 2x4, that covers the whole freeze plug, and hammer on the block of wood. That way it's hitting the perimeter of the plug.
Remove the motor mount bolts and jack the motor up by the crank pulley, NOT the balancer ring. That aught to give you a few more inches of hammer swinging room.
Thanks guys - I'll try both. Hopefully the freeze plug God will shine on me. Again, is there any difference between brass and steel as far as ease of installation? Bob
If you have the right tool it's easy. Snap-on makes a nice freeze plug tool with a long angled shaft on it and a round puck like end that fits the plug, it's made to do them on the car. It's not worth buying if you are just doing the one plug.
Brass plugs go in easier. The last steel ones I installed were so tough to get in I was paranoid I was going to crack the block!
like Walt said always use brass..... and i have jacked the car up , and secured it real well, and removed the front wheel then used a hole saw and cut a hole in the inner fender well so a long extension and socket could be brought to bear on the plug.... this allows you to swing a short handled hammer.... then when you are finished plug the hole with a plug like the electricians use to plug electrical boxes.....
I just ordered a whole brass set from TA Performance. If anyone needs the extras PM me!! I'm hoping the softer metal will allow me to just tap these right in. ray: Thanks, all!! BH
Ive always added a little silicon sealer for insurance. If your really fightin that frost plug, you could....Shhh...put a block heater in there. Just need a screwdriver to tighten the wing clamp on the back side, seals with an O ring. just don't attach the cord. Then, if you ever have the motor out, you could replace at that time. Two links if your not farmililiar with them http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1e/bl119e.htm http://forums.beyond.ca/showthread/t-245635.html
That's what started this whole mess, I had a block heater in there and it kept leaking through that screw...then when I pressure tested it it leaked everywhere, so I just want to get rid of the damn thing.
O got a brass set of plugs from TA, but I plan to pull the motor, so I can do all of them as Ive got a couple that are dripping, and they've already been replaced with the rubber bolt in type uzzled: I will do a full gasket set and oil seals while its out.. along with some fresh Duplicolor 1608 red :TU:
I have a rubber one in the back of the pass side head.. Been there for years.. Probably have to cut itout when the time ever comes..
