1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Front Brake Hose Issue

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by Rich Skylark, Jun 6, 2019.

  1. Rich Skylark

    Rich Skylark Gold Level Contributor

    4F8130AE-D182-4B16-B4C2-06E866034795.jpeg I’m having problem removing the front brake hose on my 68 custom. Was able to disconnect the hose fitting from the brake end but the brake line end isn’t moving. I’ve removed these in the past and soaked the fitting in PB Nut Blaster the previous day - no good. Heated it up with
    MAP gas same result. This was the driver side & thinking pass side is the same. Car has manual drums, any ideas ?
     
  2. Grandpas67

    Grandpas67 Well-Known Member

    Worst case scenario is a new brake line from the master. Sounds like you're doing all that you can at this point. Hopefully someone else has a tip for you.
     
  3. GSX 554

    GSX 554 Gold Level Contributor

    I have used the "Yoke" for the flaring tool to hold the metal line just like I was flaring it . Then turning the fitting with a flare nut wrench. This of course was after much lubing with your favorite like PB Blaster or Aerokroil . It has saved me many times .

    If not just replace the line .
     
  4. Redmanf1

    Redmanf1 Gold Level Contributor

    Try a wire brush around the threads and then soaking again. Sometimes you can get some scale off and the liquid can creep down the threads.. Also try to tighten it before trying to remove it, sometimes it helps break it lose...
     
  5. 64 skylark mike

    64 skylark mike Well-Known Member

    I had trouble getting rear wheel cylinder bolts off. Heard you could heat it with mapp gas and then spray with cold water. Worked for that application, not sure about on the brake line itself.
     
  6. Rich Skylark

    Rich Skylark Gold Level Contributor

    After an all night battle I got the line off. Ended up getting up & in and disconnecting the line from the junction box after a good soaking. Then I
    Still had to remove the 5/8 at the end
    Off the line by way of a 1/2” breaker bar, why was this
    So tight ?. As a bonus I went around to the passenger side, put my 2 line wrenches on and it popped off with minimal force. This is my line after a quick c/u and between the ruined nut and where it started to twist- it’s history. When I soaked everything the 2nd time I used a mix of acetone & transmission fluid That mix has bailed me outa few times. Now off to get a new line
     

    Attached Files:

  7. GSX 554

    GSX 554 Gold Level Contributor

    Looks like Stainless steel line ???
     
  8. Rich Skylark

    Rich Skylark Gold Level Contributor

    Just cleaned it up with gas and a rag- too bad
     

Share This Page