I just bought a new rochester carb an a set of new plugs installed both an when i put the car in drive an mash on the gas the car dies:blast:. I dont think it has to really do with the plugs only because i have been having this problem but not as bad. Before with the new carb i would take off from a light an she would stumble then catch her feet.
Things that i have looked into are making sure the carb is getting gas an it is.Second is that i looked into the top of the carb to see if it was shooting gas an it is 69 rivi fuel pump in the tank.
does it pop back then die? with it shut off push the secondary flaps down with your finger and see if they close on their own. check timing, carb mixture screws. your flaps are probably flopping open and running engine to lean. with the air cleaner off and the engine warmed up. and with your hand rapidly open the throttle 1 good time and see what the secondaries are doing.
Yes it has popped back then died before yes two time. When i open the back flaps they close back on there own my timing is 3 or 4 before zero we check that out today also. Sence i got this carb this problem started What does the pop mean from the carb?
uh oh. below the 0 literaly or before tdc. the mark should be ABOVE the 0 put it on 8. if your timing is right the pop back is a lean condition. hopefully someone will post a pic of the adjuster im about to describe to you. on the back passenger side of the carb is a tiny flat head screw looking piece. and under it facing down is an allen screw. while holding a pocket screw drive on the flat head. take an allen wrench and loosen the allen screw and turn the flat head quarter turn to the right then then tighten to allen screw back. do them together . don't let go of the flat head screw till the allen is tight. test drive .
"New" from what source? What is the carburetor part number? What application is it being used on, engine/drivetrain/vehicles specs?.....Cliff
stock 69 rivi 430 block new as in reman.I dont think the source should really matter? If the carb is good it good if it bad its bad.
listen to cliff. he is the q jet man. he is asking because most q jet reman companies suck. they dont calibrate them right if you want a bolt on carb. bite the bullet and send it to cliff r. ken g. greg gessler. also carmantx did a good job on mine. or buy cliffs book and learn how to tune it.
If it's commercially "remanufactured" from an Auto Parts Store, or from one of the "high performance" parts outlets, it's not worth two squirts of duck poop!....IMHO. I don't even want any of them sent here anymore. Complete waste of time/funds trying to get them up to par. I'd rather take a slam worn out virgin core from the core pile and start from scratch, PERFECT result every single time.......Cliff
Ok i got you an see where you are coming from cliff. This carb came from auto line ordered it from rock auto.
I had 1 bad carb come from Rock Auto and they said " No Problem we will send another " . That 2nd one was just as bad. They talked me into trying a 3rd one and that was the worse one. They refunded my money. All these carbs had to be sent back to somewhere in MD where they came from. I took my one that I had here , rebuilt it and have been very happy .
It's unfortunate, but we see the same thing, and I hear those same stories countless times. There hasn't been a single "remanufactured" q-jet from any source sent in here in at least 10 years that was worth the shipping to get it here. They are horrible. I consider myself pretty good at correcting problems with things, and used to consider it a challenge to go thru one and try to get a good end result. We finally pulled the plug on that deal, and don't touch them. They are a complete waste of time and funds, "butchered" beyond belief. Even when they look correct, or even have the correct part number on them for your application, they are WAY off the mark everyplace. Really no need to go deeper into the discussion than that......Cliff
What where the problems that you where having with those carbs was all the problems the same from carbs to carb
ALL of them will have issues, here are some of them: Leaking bottom plugs....right thru the "glue".....every single time. "Soft" castings from the acid bath cleaning. Stripped out threads. POS needle/seat assembly, holes too small, poor flow, low quality Viton needle tip. Lead plugs in the idle bypass holes. RICH idle calibrations. Bent/smashed/damaged secondary fuel nozzles. No threads for the fuel inlet seat, some POS poor flowing double "O" ring deal pressed in there instead. "One size fits all" calibration. Airbleeds too small, to much fuel to the engine clear across the load/speed range. Poor fit between the main casting and airhorn. Float level incorrect. Miss-matched parts, Olds or Chevy tops on Buick center sections, and visa-versa. Incorrect gaskets between components. Bent power piston hanger. Bent secondary hanger. Worn slam out airflap shaft spring. Secondary plastic cam cracked, broken, loose on the shaft or missing. APT system disabled, generic jets and rods installed instead. JUNK accellerator pumps, and poor quality accellerator pump seals. Throttle plates not set for full open angle at full throttle. Twisted/bent throttle shaft(s). No bushings installed, or thin wall brass bushings instead of self lubricating bronze bushings. ......I'll stop there, getting tired of typing!.....Cliff
The carb is not a bad carb after all the choke was not set the right way sucking to much air we adjusted it yesterday an no more falling on her face when i nail it.
Think that means it is a bad carb, or vacuum leak, or something. Choke should be open when warm. Send the carb to one of the guys recommended?
It's bad someplace, and don't send it here. We do NOT want any commercially remanufactured carbs in our shop. They aren't worth the gas it takes to get to the Post Office to ship it......Cliff
Oh i wont send it, Ill pass is what i wrote before, On every post i have ever posted all i get is tell me more, my answer to that is ask the question that i have not given you the answer to. Number two there this always a smart ass that writes back with a smart answer that thinks he knows it all by guessing his way to the problem because he does not put his hands on his car, that always sends it to the shop and most likely does not know to much about this car only what the shop tells him he has. Do me this... look at all my post from my first day on here an see how many times some one has came up with the right answer with a problem i was having, an also most importantly how many times i have got the smart comments from the smart guy yeah hes smart alright.Every car goes down and like use all that love that feeling of ridding class American cars we would like to get that problem we are having fixed asap, so to the good guys im not bashing the sight so searches i have done help me so much,SPECIAL THANKS TO LARRY70GS, and got me back on the road. P.S if i get kicked off its been a good ride.
