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  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
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Good Intentions

Discussion in 'Wrenchin' Secrets' started by cypress1234, Jan 21, 2014.

  1. cypress1234

    cypress1234 Member

    Sooo...I just pulled the engine and tranny on my 67 Riv.....It's sitting on the garage floor hanging from the cherry picker. I go in the house to grab a beer, and explain to the "old lady" :blast: that I'll only be a "few more minutes"!!!
    Sooo....I go back outside and see my buddy is pulling the second to last bolt out of the bell housing (with the ass end of the tranny propped up on the leg of the cherry picker) It was like "slow motion" as i said "N O O O O O O O! ! ! !" and he said " W O O P S " the top bolt hole on the bell housing snapped like a pretzel! Oh well... I know **** happens! so anyone had any luck welding on a bell housing? any tips would be appriciated.

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  2. Race Lutz

    Race Lutz Well-Known Member

    I did the same thing about 30 years ago. I took the bellhousing (transmission) to a first class welding shop that my father was familiar with. They put it back together with a jig to make sure it was square and it worked out just fine. Good fit and all....
     
  3. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Cast aluminum welds like cast steel. DONT CONFUSE THIS WITH CAST IRON. Find a local guy with an aluminum spool gun and a bottle of 100% Argonne gas. Bevel the edges for 100% penetration, then wash with a solvent like brake kleen or lacquer thinner. CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN. Use a small wire toothbrush and clean some more. When your done washing, heat with a propane torch "Pretty hot" until the oil in the casting quits smoking. Then repeat above. The cast stuff is porous and will absorb oil. That will contaminate the weld. PERIOD.
    When you think its clean enough, clean it again, then bolt it onto the engine block , used as your jig. Pre heat the casting to about 350-400F. Spit will really sizzle at that temp, OR, get a temp stick crayon from a welding supply shop. Tack it in several places, then have the welder have at it. I would do the inside as well, only after the outside is done. Every time you stop the welding, the black soot left over (that's COKE from the oil) will need to be cleaned AGAIN.
    The process will not get nearly hot enough to affect the block. Any AL spatter will come off with a pocket knife. Get a #40 flapper wheel and contour the weld so youll never see it. The judges will need mirrors and lights to get back there as well LOL... Excluding the prep work and CLEANING, that's a 10 minute weld with a MIG gun. PM me if youd like to discuss aluminum welding. Ive owned this highly customized by me, aluminum Roamer yacht for 42 years. Bill in TR

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