1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
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  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
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  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
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Got Salt?

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by WUWU20, Dec 12, 2003.

  1. WUWU20

    WUWU20 Well-Known Member

    Being in the northeast..(WV)..I have built a few cars, some my own, some belonging to others, when you study a build the very first thing around these parts is the body...hows the body, is it solid...well 99% of the cars you recieve in these parts aren't...the question is not how solid, its more like whats left we can work with....I built a 1973 F-100 in 94, loved that truck, 2 top 5 best of shows F-100 Super Nationals in Tenn..being in the body repair business, thats something I'm very proud of..short bed, big block, XLT Ranger, it was bought here in 1973 at Grady Whitlock Ford...half of my budget went to the body on that truck...the only thing I didn't replace was half the cab and the inner bed sides...you can figure it out..I replaced ALOT of the body...but thats the norm around here......I just recieved my 1966 Skylark from Ark and its in the garage on jack stands and the build is underway...I go in the garage each day after work and can't help but work around it amazed how solid it is...the is no rust at all to repair...nothing, no quarters to buy, doors to rebuild the bottoms of, fenders to replace, core support to patch the bottoms of...I just can't get over it...how can something thats all but 38 years old, made of metal still be in that shape.....It something how this little thing we need this time of years to make the roads safe to drive on takes such a toll on or cars.....I always thought that paying to ship a car from far off wasn't worth the trouble....man, have I had a change of heart...so...do YOU need salt?....lol, You can have mine, I don't want it anymore!...Its salt free for me! :TU:
     
  2. painekiller

    painekiller Well-Known Member

    James i know what you're saying:TU: i live in northeast ohio(the snowbelt) i have picked up several cars from the area that were total rust buckets. right now i am restoring a 68 convert. from n. carolina and its hard to believe that even the brake lines(original) came off without breaking. so far every nut and bolt has been able to be removed without the heat wrench.:laugh: even the e-brake works which is very unusual up here :grin: all i had to do to the underside of the car was wipe it down with laquer thinner and paint it. it even still had the original paint underside:TU: there wasnt even any flaking of rust on the frame so there was no need to even wire brush it:shock: its amazing how a few hundred miles can make such a difference:Do No:
     
  3. rtabish

    rtabish Well-Known Member

    it is like a horror story for you guys back east, isn't it? salt changes the specific gravity of water so it stays in water form far below its normal freezing point. this can be good in areas where the temp doesnt go far past 20*f and the snow maintains its moisture content well. but salt also promotes oxygen bonding with iron and carbon in water to make copious quantities of ferrous oxide. BAD, BAD, BAD! around here sand was used for years and years because we have snow that has a low moisture content and the temp regularly went far below 20*, but because we also have long periods of air inversions in midwinter, the dust level was causeing serious health problems in heavily traveled areas. so now we use a liquid deicer that is supposed to be environmentally harmless and water soluable. the only problem is it is not particularly friendly to painted or plated surfaces. and once the paint and chrome are pitted and worn off the cars around here, nature takes its course and rust rears its ugly head. if you can find a car that hasnt been driven in this deicer crap [probably parked for at least 20 years] it is pretty rust free. but most newer cars all have the same tell tale signs of creeping rust. pretty sad :ball:
     
  4. BuicksRock

    BuicksRock Well-Known Member

    James,

    I'm glad you approve of what used to be my car. That car was extremely rust free, even for this area! Here in NW Arkansas we only see salt on the roads once or twice a year, as long as you keep the classic off the roads on those days your in good shape :TU:

    I saw on another post you were swapping those drum brakes for disc and going to 17" wheels. I bet that really improves things. Any pictures?? What kind of wheels did you go with? I'd love to see what you've done in such a short time of owning the car.

    See ya, and enjoy that car. I miss it badly.

    -Chris
     
  5. WUWU20

    WUWU20 Well-Known Member

    Sup Chris!!....the car is well underway, its totaly apart, I did buy a set of 17 inch billet wheels for it, I have one on the rear, it gets me fired up to work harder on it :Brow: I have a set of Camaro spindles ordered from a guy in KY, so yes I changing to disc but I have to say the drums really seamed pretty good when I was driving it home....I'm gonna try very hard to get some pics done tomorrow and I'll send you some and post some on my web page, I can't put them on here cause I'm to dumb to down size them, I suck at that stuff, but she's coming right along, and I'm so happy with her! :TU:
     

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