1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

H E L P!!! Transmission not engaging drive or reverse. Linkage or rebuild???

Discussion in 'The "Juice Box"' started by James71, Mar 22, 2016.

  1. James71

    James71 Member

    When I try to put my 1971 Skylark custom Th350 133k miles in gear nothing happens? it does not enguage..If I keep going through gears (drive neutral reverse) it will go into gear.. Is this a linkage problem or do I need a rebuild?
     

    Attached Files:

    • 059.jpg
      059.jpg
      File size:
      71.4 KB
      Views:
      33
    • 129.jpg
      129.jpg
      File size:
      81.1 KB
      Views:
      30
  2. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    When it goes into gear, does it drive normally? When you move the shifter, nothing happens at all? As if it were in neutral?
     
  3. James71

    James71 Member

    yes it drives nomally once I get it in gear..But when I move the shifter from park to reverse or drive it doesn't enguage /nothing happens just like it is not in gear..after a few tries it will go into gear..What do u think???
     
  4. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Fluid check, engine running, in Park? Crawl under the car and check for anything obvious like loose/damaged linkage. I would then drop the pan and check/change the filter.
     
  5. James71

    James71 Member

    Thanks Larry70GS!..The fluid level is good. I will crawl under the car and see if I can see anything later. I am trying to do as much as I can before I bring it down to a transmission shop. 2 of the 3 shops I talked to already gave me hard sell on rebuilding the trans.
     
  6. TexasJohn55

    TexasJohn55 Well-Known Member

    Sounds like converter drainback. Check fluid running in park, shut it off and mark fluid level on stick or measure distance from "Full" mark after it has set a few minutes. Use this as a reference. Let it set overnight and check fluid level before cranking up. If it is way high from previous reference mark and it doesn't respond when dropped in gear, it was drainback. It just takes awhile to pump up again and refill converter and bleed air out everywhere.
     
  7. jalopi42

    jalopi42 Don't Wait

    the fix doesn't sound good or would parking downhill help???
     
  8. TexasJohn55

    TexasJohn55 Well-Known Member

    Not a fix but maybe a diagnosis.
     
  9. James71

    James71 Member

    Thanks TexasJohn55! I will check fluid levels when car is hot and cold and update post tomorrow/this weekend...
     
  10. 12.0 wagon

    12.0 wagon Grocerys optional

    I experienced something similar today . Car wouldn't move from trailer no gears after 5-10 minutes and car warmed up got back gears and raced all day no problems. Can you please explain converter drain back and possible causes and corrections. Thanks Bret
     
  11. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I believe a certain amount of drain back is normal, but the front pump should fill the converter instantly upon engine restart. I would expect a front pump problem or some kind of cross leak is involved. In any case, not an easy fix.
     
  12. Geoemojr

    Geoemojr Guest

    What if his linkage is loose down by tranny where u adjust it with bolt.
     

Share This Page