gonna do it in a few days, need to make sure i get everything straight. first is the gaskets, i havn't bought them yet. should i look for a steel head gasket or a composite? the composite will slightly lower compression, i know, but which seals better? also, what kind(s) of sealant to use on the intake around the ports and water jackets? are there any other tips you guys can give me to make sure assembly goes well? this is my first time cracking open this engine, it is stock except for a set of headers. (and on that note, i need a foolproof way of keeping those from leaking, too...)
I stick with composite head gaskets, they are a bit more "forgiving" and I need plenty of that! Typically, the intake "bathtub" comes with black RTV for around the water crossovers and I like to use plenty of "Gaskacinch" sealer everywhere. There's a header flange bolt on the bottom center I refer to as a two hour bolt. You'll soon understand which one and why. Best of luck, you can do it!! For reference, T/A Performance has a torque spec and sequence guide on their site.:TU:
Jim's right on with the "forgiving" part of composite gaskets! I know this from experience. I just did mine, and used steel gaskets, the rim on the back water port on one gasket picked up some grit during instalation, and it was leaking antifreeze out the side real good from between the head and the block. $75 bucks for another set of gaskets.... and I'll be alot more careful putting them on this time. Also price is an issue. TA is the ONLY place to get the steel head gaskets for $75. You can get composite gaskets anywhere for alot less. Personally I'm always going to go with the steel gaskets, because I demand every bit of performance I can get.... but it's defiantley and preference thing...
oh ya... The pushrods for cylinder #8 are a little tricky. On my car (has A/C, I don't know if that make the air box bigger) I had to undo the pass. motor mount and tilt the motor the get the pushrods in and out.
