Was wondering if anyone manufactures a header that you don't have to "modify" with a hammer to get to fit? I have a Skylark that has a BB transplant like so many others, but it seems that every set of headers I've seen have had the crap beat out of them to make them fit. Is there a set out there that actually fit without being totally custom? Thanks Josh
The engine in my avatar car was a 396 Chevy (don't knock me, it's what I had at the time) and I put a used set of Hooker headers on it (for a Chevelle) and they fit perfectly. I can't speak for BBB fitment though.
Hookers and the old MT Scavengers fit great on 1970-72 A bodies. You’ll need to be more specific on what body/ motor/ year ?
I have a 71 Skylark hard top with a 462, and auto trans. It seems that it's always the same spot that has interference... where the steering shaft passes by the header. I've thought about a couple solutions, but i'm surprised that manufacturers haven't corrected this problem area by now!
I've had a few big block Buick cars with several different sets of headers. I've had Poston, TA, Hookers (both inside and one tube outside the frame rail) and the MT repros. The secret to the steering shaft is finesse in several areas. I've never had to ding a header in my life if they were the correct body/engine combination. I didn't even have to ding them to put a 455 in a 75 Skylark (Nova-sized) car. For one, you can take the steering section out while you are putting the headers in. That can make life a lot easier. Second, loosen the 3 bolts that hold the gear box on and lift it in the back. Let it rest as low as it can in the front. That little bit will gain you up to 1/4" of clearance in the front. Next, loosen the two column support bolts under the column but just enough to let you wiggle it. If you pull the steering wheel as far toward the center of the car and tighten the column bolts, it will help with the next part since the firewall is a pivot point. Finally, loosen the steering column collar bolts in the firewall that the steering column passes through. Lift up and push outward and tighten the firewall bolts back up. That usually gains close to another 1/4" of room. All in all, that should give you enough room to avoid dinging the tubes.
Thanks for the tips, I will defiantly give this a whirl when I reinstall my engine in the next few weeks!
I installed A set of Poston BB headers on my 72 Skylark and they fit pretty good.I didn't have to dent anything.
Upon thinking about it a little more, I assumed your header/steering shaft is rubbing like mine was, the 4 o'clock portion of the steering shaft rubbed one of the center tubes at the outer edge of the bend. If that is not the case, you might want to experiment with the ways you can angle the steering gear box and the steering column through the firewall. I discovered what worked the first time by loosening the gear box and the firewall collar first. Then I grabbed the shaft near the header tube and tried to move it around. I noted where the gearbox and firewall collar wanted to move to give me that clearance. Once you see the relationship between them, it makes sense.
I think all of them come out. Even the non-big block comes loose at the steering column splines and the rag joint coupling to the steering box isn't that big of a deal.
From George Nenadovich: Here are two steering intermediate shafts (go between steering column and steering box). The one on top is from a factory GS 455 car, 1970. The one on the bottom is from a 72 Skylark 350. All GS455 models used the upper shaft and this is very helpful for 1971 models since the VIN does not indicate engine size. All Buick big blocks in Skylark models use the upper shaft (bolt-on flange) and so do all Oldsmobile 455 cars such as Cutlass, 442, Hurst.
