1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Header install

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by Bdogatx, Jan 20, 2024.

  1. Bdogatx

    Bdogatx Member

    Current issue I'm running into installing headers. This is the only stud on either of the heads. Right side header bolted up fine, left side will not line up easily, looks like the head broke and someone bubblegummed a weld on and the stud is not in the correct location? Stud does not want to budge, but even if it did is the hole in the correct location? Option might be to enlarge the hole in the header flange to give me some wiggle room? Header.jpg
     
  2. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Yup, enlarge the hole in the header flange and move on.

    Devon
     
    Bdogatx and 12lives like this.
  3. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    If you aren't pulling the head, do as Devon said, you'll be time and money ahead until it does need to come out. Fixing the header flange will be easier, too!
     
    Bdogatx likes this.
  4. Stevem

    Stevem Well-Known Member

    Many times the gasket has less clearance for the bolts then the flange does .

    If you have tin snips and want to spend less time cursing while doing this job then cut the gasket into 3 or 4 sections and then notch it for the bolt holes .

    In this way you can get all the bolts started and then slip each gasket section right into place.
    Although it will be a bit of a mess you should really coat both sides of the gasket with antiseze .

    Should you have a gasket blow out this coating will allow you to just slip a new one right in.

    Also please get some antiseize on those bolts and or studs your using, you'll hug yourself for it down the road!
     

    Attached Files:

    Dadrider and Mark Demko like this.
  5. Bdogatx

    Bdogatx Member

    Drilled the flange hole to the next size now all bolts line up...except...who thought it was a good idea to bury the bottom middle bolt so close to the header tubes that I need a 5 year old's hand to get the bolt started!?!? Doug's headers, the bolt hole in the header is already slotted, can get the bolt (ARP 12 point) in but not started because it is on the tips of my now cramped fingers. Can't maneuver the header with that center bolt pre installed and the stud in place...there has to be a sweet spot. Engine mount is removed, steering shaft is shifted out of the way, fuel pump off, engine jacked up...need smaller hands because the 5 year old's arms aren't going to be long enough to reach :rolleyes:
     
  6. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    I've usually had good luck from beneath and using a wrench, doing half a turn, flip it over and do the other half. It is slow but it works.
     
  7. Stevem

    Stevem Well-Known Member

    Why don't you switch to a stud in that location then you can just slip the header onto it.
     
  8. DauntlessSB92

    DauntlessSB92 Addicted to Buick

    That middle bolt is the worst. 12pt ARP or equivalent fastener and a stubby wrench and access from the bottom. That's the best way to do it in my opinion.
     
    DaWildcat likes this.
  9. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    What I did on my last install of my headers was notched out the bottom bolt hole on the header flange, started the bolt IN THE HEAD FIRST by a couple threads, then bring the header up from the bottom and hang the header on the exposed bottom bolt threads, install the rest of the bolts, run ‘em in, then while there’s still a gap between the flange and head, slide your OEM manifold gaskets in, that’s correct, I used the Fel Pro individual exhaust manifold gaskets that I have dozens of from gasket sets.
     
  10. Quick Buick

    Quick Buick Arlington Wa

  11. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    His issue is the stud that won't come out. You can't put it over the stud and drop it over the center bolt. Maybe you should slot the hole where the stud is too???
     
  12. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    That stud someone put in there looks dry as a bone. Put some penetrating shmutz on there.
     
  13. 72gs4spd

    72gs4spd Well-Known Member

    Why not use studs instead of bolts? I just bolted mine to the heads last night. Used ARP studs with 12 point reduced size nuts. The hooker 1-3/4” headers are pretty tight for the drivers side middle lower and passengers side middle too towards the rear. Could even get a wrench on it. Need to get a 7/16” cheapo wrench and make some modifications
     
  14. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    I would think studs would make installation more problematic o_O
     
    Fox's Den likes this.

Share This Page