1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
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  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
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  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
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Heater Box Reseal Kit?

Discussion in 'The Big Chill' started by Stampy, Feb 6, 2012.

  1. Stampy

    Stampy Well-Known Member

    Tore apart my entire car today to yank the heater core. What a PITA.

    Along the way I fixed /cleaned/oiled a bunch of other things, and I think my AC/Heater should actually work really well now, once I get everything sealed back up. Speaking of which...

    Does anyone have any recommendations for a cheap, complete, effective reseal kit for a 1966 Skylark with factory AC? I have found some online, but they all seem to show a picture of gaskets that are shaped like the heater only box... maybe this is just one of those "generic picture" situations?

    Any thoughts?
     
  2. SteeveeDee

    SteeveeDee Orange Acres

    I forget where I got it, but I have some gray "dum-dum" type AC sealer. Works great on the old Skylark. It's on a roll, so I just reeled out what I needed, curved to fit and installed the box. Try a home AC vendor? Yeah, the heater core is a real sweetheart to change. On my '68 it required taking the hood and passenger fender off, if you don't know where or don't want to drill the hole for the socket. I left that nut off, after the second heater core.
     
  3. Houndogforever

    Houndogforever Silver Level contributor

    I bought this kit for my 67, non-ac car. It has all the seals, but totally lacks an instruction sheet detailing what is a seal and what was just left over after die cutting.
    After cleaning and painting my box up, this worked pretty well for me, but it is still just sitting in a box now. The seal that fits around the heater core tubes is much thinner than the original one tho. The new one is maybe 3/8 thick and the original was 3/8 thick but stuck out the fire wall holes a good half inch beyond that. Not sure if the original was really thick to start with, or if it was multi-level.
     

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