1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Heater Core Replacement Question

Discussion in 'Wrenchin' Secrets' started by DavidC77, Jul 23, 2011.

  1. DavidC77

    DavidC77 "Matilda" 1970 Buick GSX

    Howdy All

    I have a 1970 Buick GSX (tribute car) , 455 Stage 2, TB 400 SB, with air conditioning.

    I need to replace my heater core. The repair manual says I need to tear apart the inside quit a lot to do it.

    My question is I've been hearing and reading a lot about having to remove the right fender to do it.

    Is this true, do I really need to pull the fender to replace the heater core ??? Or is it just easyer to replace the heater core if you pull the fender ???

    Click on the attached photo to see my set up, the heater hoses run to the fender side of the heater box.

    I haven't worked on older cars for years so I have forgotten a lot of the old tricks, I still remember some though :Brow: . I'm relearning a lot now that I have bought this car. I'm remembering the old days when I worked on these cars when they were new and I was a young wrench turner.

    It seems strange to pull the fender to do it but I have seen a lot of strange things that you have to do. I've worked on vehicles where I had to pull the Y-pipe to change the starter, remove a motor mount and lift the engine to replace a spark plug, remove the rear bumper to replace the rear spring shackle and so on, so it wouldn't suprize me if I had to remove a fender, it's just stupid if I have to :Dou: .

    Thanks

    David
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Doo Wop

    Doo Wop Where were you in '62?

  3. DavidC77

    DavidC77 "Matilda" 1970 Buick GSX


    Great, Thank You, this should work (from that thread)

    The manual says to remove the fender, but if you look at the plastic cover over the assembly on the inside of the car, you will see in the bottom right hand corner, a round emboss. If you drill a 5/16 hole through the middle of the emboss, you will take out the stud that requires the fender removal. Then follow the directions in the manual and you can pull the heater core . When reassembling the unit, a little dum-dum in the hole will disguise what you did, and the three remaining bolts hold the assembly just fine.

    And thank you to "The Old Guy" Joe Taubitz for posting that help !!! :TU:


    My manual doesn't say anything about removing the fender that's why I asked.

    And a huge thank you for not being one of those guys that just yell at you to do a search :TU: .

    I'll try to take some photo's and post them to help the next guy :beers2: .
     
  4. BadBrad

    BadBrad Got 4-speed?

    David,

    Similar to what you've seen I opened the wheelhouse of my REAL GSX (with A/C) years back to get to the bolt. I knew at the time that fender removal was the factory method. I unbolted the few bolts at the bottom of the fender where they meet the wheelhouse, pried the two parts open from underneath so that I could touch that bolt. I put my nose in the gap, lined up my fingers in stereo vision on either side of the wheelhouse and drew a chalk circle on the wheel side. With a one inch hole saw I opened the wheelhouse about 300 degrees at the chalk circle, pulled down the metal flap and found the bolt at my finger tips. After completing the heater core R&R job I folded the metal flap back in place and sealed it up with chewing gum or other appropriate goo. It could have easily been welded shut too.

    My current car has a similar but more primitive solution completed by the original owner. They were not smart enough to only open the hole enough to pull down the flap; they opened a larger, complete hole.

    Good luck with yours!
     
  5. DavidC77

    DavidC77 "Matilda" 1970 Buick GSX

    Thanks

    I was thinking on the same lines as you.

    I'm thinking about seeing were the bolt is like you did then cutting the hole open and then pluging it with a rubber drain plug like they use in JEEP floors, I think I still have a few of them kicking around, my JEEP was aways full of mud so I just left them out :Brow: . Or I was thinking something like one of the expandable freeze plugs might work.

    Thanks again guys, as it's been said it is great to have a bunch of nice folks out here to help someone out, I know i always try to help also when someone asks for help.

    I may just end up waiting till cold weather when I can just park it down in the garage and work on it, I don't want to tie it up now that we are having good weather and I don't need the heater :cool: .

    I will make sure to get photo's when I do it though to share.
     
  6. bherbert

    bherbert Well-Known Member

    I will be doing this very soon, but the whole front clip is off of my car, so I hope it won't be too terribly bad. I usually don't have that kind of luck though.

    Bob
     
  7. Oldskewl59

    Oldskewl59 Gold Level Contributor

    I am doing that job next week. I thought the inner fender removal would be relatively easy. Any problems I am not thinking about?
     
  8. gstewart

    gstewart Well-Known Member

    fender liner is fairly simple, at least on the passenger side. have done it twice, once for painting and once for installing the front body bushings at the firewall base.
    suggest that u support the open hood on that side witha 2x4 to relieve pressure on the fender.
     
  9. SteeveeDee

    SteeveeDee Orange Acres

    On my '68 GS I had to take the hood and fender off. After that heater core went bad (about 8 years later) I did all the work again. This time I just left the offending nut off. I'm not sure that's much of an option with the AC box. Some large late '60s and early '70s Fords have the heater core under the hood, and they just drop into the AC/heater box. Good thing, too, some of them snacked on heater cores.

    I've tuned up a '77 Chevy Monza in 45 minutes, back in the day. That's cap, rotor and all 8 plugs, check/set the timing. Mitchell manual says 3.2 hours. My little sis got a good deal on her tune ups.
     
  10. SteeveeDee

    SteeveeDee Orange Acres

    On my '68, there is no way that I can see to remove the inner fender with the outer fender on. Unless maybe the engine was out. YMMV.
     
  11. Oldskewl59

    Oldskewl59 Gold Level Contributor

    Well it can be done on a 71. It was pretty easy once I figured it out. Will be very easy if there is a next time. The bad news is I think I need a core support.
     

Share This Page