I have read through several postings already on here about the Mallory Unilite Comp 9000 distributors. They mostly seem to debate whether it is a better or worse unit than Pertronix, Points, MSD, Ignition man, ect. None of that matters to me right now as it was already on my car when I bought it last year and seems to be working well. It has a T/A performance sticker on it. However, I was not given any paperwork with the car for the distributor. That leaves me with the following questions: 1.] Does anyone have the factory literature they can make a copy of and snail mail me? 2.] Does anyone know a good web site for these with information? I couldn't even locate the Mallory web site. 3.] What coil shoud be used? 4.] What resistor if any should be used and how should it be installed? I did read where this is important to the lifespan of the unit. 5.] How do you change the curve? 6.] What spark plugs are recommended or have people found to work best? I am using Autolite 666 7.] What spark plug gap is recommended? Thanks in advance! This is the first electronic ignition I have had on a Buick so that leaves me with a lot of questions. o No:
I am running a complete mallory set up, really works great on my car. Comp 9000 billet dist, pro comp coil with ballast resistor, hy-fire ignition with rev-limiter. I dont have the factory manuals, but have found some info on the web, I will look it up for you in the morning:TU:
mallory diagrams Brian, I have been using mallory equipment for 20 years and am very pleased with them. Here is one link: http://www.centuryperformance.com/mallory/wiring.asp Here is another: http://www.mrgasket.com/ ...go to the online catalog section and open the mallory catalog. If you still need info let me know, maybe I can help. Don:TU:
The info Don gave you is where I got all my questions answered. You have to enter your part #"s and search for the manuals. They also have a e-mail set up for tech and trouble shooting. Let me know if you need any part #"s.:TU:
OK, here's the way I do Unilte Mallory, the way Mallory always has wanted them done. Stock resistor wire left in place, stock or Mallory compatible coil used (as that system doesn't have drivers in it to make any and all performance coils make one more volt than a point system will, high-zoot, super-duper coils ust aren't necessary or worth the wasted money for them). Stock resistor setup to positive side of the stock coil. This resists the coil to OEM specs. In the box with the Unilite was a separage porcelain resistor, .50/.60 ohms resistance. Has two terminals, doesn't matter which end you use for what, but one end to coil positive terminal to feed this second resistor, other end to Mallory Unilite RED power input wire, drops the Unilite input line voltage to between 7.0 to 9.5, just what it likes. When I spin a Unilte setup on my 1955 distriburtor machine, I use the 6 volt battery that runs the machine to power the Unilite up to read it. I have spun Unilite's this way to 8,500 rpms, without issue and/or problems, loss of pattern or spark, so they like lower input voltages and that is why the second resistor came in the box with them. Mallory suggests to use a 9.0 volt dry lantern battery to power the Unilite for distributor machine testing, so that should be a dead giveaway as to what it likes for input voltage. All the ones I have resisted this way pertform just fine, and NONE of them has blown out. I've done it this way for over 25 years, and, I don't care what those whom claim to be Mallory "experts" think about it. Good set of magnetic suppression, spiral or "magna" core wires, 7mm are fine, 8mm better, and plug gaps of no more than .035, and a Unilite will live long and prosper for eons, through many, many galaxies and universes.
Thanks for the input gentlemen! Dear Rob, Chris, Don, and IgnitionMan, Thanks for all the input gentlemen. Those hints give me at least a clue what I should have going on under the hood. Thanks a lot!
