I have just shot an email to TA performance to ask about international shipping, see what they reply back. I'm tempted to get everything from them, but all depends on cost of shipping and import taxes here... what about this cam? says good idle - mild lump..... http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_212-350 I know the 112 had been recommended before but that one didn't seem much above stock and with this one I'd get the mild lump and also says can use stock valve train and converter. Meaning I can just then order stock size/type valves, lifters and pushrods right?
Decent cam. More upper rpm. Likes headers , big valves, and big rear gears. Yes it says works with stock valve train and convertor. But performance suffers. A lot. If your not rebuilding heads , you don't need valves. With this cam you still need springs. Cam has been revised . It's about 480 lift now, incase website doesn't show. If you want lump turn idle down to 550. Lump is wasted gas out exhaust during overlap. See if you can access this on Facebook. Crower cam low compression and hooker headers. He is on the board here and so is his work between the 212 cam and the crower. https://m.facebook.com/groups/1509115445975132?view=permalink&id=2024388647781140&refid=18&ref=bookmarks&_ft_=qid.6462324291143293543:mf_story_key.2024388647781140:top_level_post_id.2024388647781140:tl_objid.2024388647781140&__tn__=*s*s-R
ok.. so I'll forget about that cam then lol no can't access that link, probably because it's part of a group that i'm not a member of i guess?
Been looking again, making a plan in case TA doesn't do international shipping ..and even if they do but I can get it all from summit would be a lot better as my friend gets dealer prices and again I'd be saving the postage and import tax. Could one of you who's used to it please have a quick look see if I didnt miss anything and if the parts are any good? dont have a clue on the brands if chosen. thank you Might go with the Crower cams as they have them in summit. (if can't use TA) Earlier someone recommended the 50258, but reading on their website that seems to be more for a bit modified engines? - https://www.crower.com/camshafts/buick-350-compu-pro-hydraulic-cam-276-hdp.html Whilst the 50257 says works well with stock or near stock engines... would this one be better for me? - https://www.crower.com/camshafts/buick-350-compu-pro-hydraulic-cam-260-hdp.html In terms of the rest of the parts would it be this? Lifters - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cro-66050-16/applications Timing chain - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/clo-c-3003k/overview/make/buick Springs - Can't find Pushrods - Can't find Engine gasket kit - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/fel-fs8264pt-1/overview/make/buick plus these ones, as the kit says it doesnt come with the ones below: Valve cover gaskets - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/fel-vs50034c/overview/make/buick Valley Pan gasket - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/fel-ms96006/overview/make/buick Exhaust gasket - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/fel-ms90241/overview/make/buick Intake gasket - the search shows loads but none says for buick, they say chevy? - https://www.summitracing.com/int/se...buick/engine-size/5-7l-350?retaillocation=int
Thanks I have read it, he has a stall converter and head work, etc... so not sure if that level 3 crowler will be good for me as I have none of those things..
That gasket kit comes with everything except the valley pan. Buicks use the valley pan as the gasket. Don't buy those intake gaskets you listed, those are for chevy. That's the one thing I hate about having a Buick, everyone things all BOP motors are the same as chevy, so they lump all the chevy **** in the same place. You'll come to realize that. The kit also comes with the exhaust manifold to head gaskets, but you won't need them. You won't get the manifolds off without breaking bolts anyway. Buick didn't use gaskets from the factory and if they aren't leaking, leave them alone. That crower 276hdp would be fine for your applications, but if you don't intend on changing out the converter and the rear gears. The 50257 would be fine also, as would the 50256. Take your pick, they all cost the same. YOU WILL NEED 68/69 LIFTERS. The 68-69 Buick 350 oils through the rocker shafts and therefore has different lifters and solid pushrods. Valvetrain parts, aside from valves and springs, will NOT swap over from 68-69 to 70-80.
Thanks MrSony. Noted and I'll update my shopping list below. so you are saying the lifters I listed, as they say 68 -81 for the 350, they are no good? Crower 50258 276hdp - https://www.crower.com/camshafts/buick-350-compu-pro-hydraulic-cam-276-hdp.html Lifters - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cro-66050-16/applications To be confirmed Timing chain - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/clo-c-3003k/overview/make/buick Springs - Can't find Pushrods - Can't find Engine gasket kit - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/fel-fs8264pt-1/overview/make/buick plus these ones, as the kit says it doesnt come with the ones below: Valve cover gaskets - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/fel-vs50034c/overview/make/buick Valley Pan gasket - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/fel-ms96006/overview/make/buick The only other thing is the oil pump parts, which I don't know if I need or not as don't have an oil pressure gauge, but for the price they cost and seeing as the engine is apart, might as well do it? and that will have to come from TA. If TA doesn't do international shipping I'll get it posted to a friend in the US and he can post to me, I guess is only small parts and if he puts the value under 50 dollars then I won't pay import tax.
The stock push rod length is 9.650 for the 350. However, as mentioned, the 69 and earlier engines oil the valve train through a passageway in the block and heads. The 70 and up, oil through the lifters and hollow push rods. You can convert to through the push rod oiling. The lifters you linked look like they fit the later engines as well as the early engines (according to Sumitt's application guide), and that can't be. The stock 350 push rods are 9.650" in length. If you convert over to push rod oiling, these will work. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIoNuVpoyP1gIV4bztCh34ZQwEEAQYASABEgKuLvD_BwE If it was me, I'd get adjustable push rods. Any time you change to a higher performance cam, you need to check for proper push rod length. If it is off, you can adjust it. The timing chain and gears you linked have only one key way. You will not be able to degree the cam in if it is off. You may be better off with the cam Gary recommended even though it is a stock cam.
That is the Crower 'level 2' cam I recommended earlier if you didn't want a stock replacement cam. Crower offers single springs for use with this cam, and they're slightly tighter than new stock springs. It would match the 500 CFM Holley nicely, and keep your power at low-mid RPM where you need it, assuming stock drivetrain. The only thing I'd worry about when it's all said and done is the extra cylinder pressure--with 9.2:1 or so compression, it would be pushing the limits of premium pump gas, plus with miles already on the engine and the bearings and rings broke-in with the stock cam, would put extra pressure against these (particularly the rings) and might cause some oil burning after you run it a while. Maybe it will, maybe it won't, but I've heard stories from guys who've done this and it was the end result. Then there's the degreeing issue. Crower is said to have accurate cams (at least more accurate than others) with the advertised timing on their grinds, with them being off only a degree or so. You might get lucky with just lining up the dots on the timing gear/chain... As far as wasting our time if you decide not to follow our advice: no worries! We do this stuff because we enjoy it. It's just advice, to be used or not by anyone who might find it useful.
The level 3 cam would work too. A fellow here on the boards uses that cam without headers or extra stall on the converter with great results. Others here have used it as well. It'll be more suited to a larger carb though, but would still work with what you have now. Only thing is it'll need tighter springs for use with taller lifts, and Crower sells those too. Those are the dual springs and will require some machining to your heads so they'll accommodate them.
OR if you're going to be getting stuff from TA anyway, just use them. They're committed to Buicks so they know their stuff. TA uses Schneider cams (last I heard) and those will need to be degree'd in. They sell a nice timing chain/gear set for the Buick 350 with multiple keyways. You can also get a custom cam ground for it for a few extra pounds. We can guide you through the process of degree'ing if you decide to go this path.
OK thanks! I do worry... my thing is old harleys and I'm always ready to explain things over and over again as everyone has to start somewhere, but sometimes you come across people who get fed up, but I've noticed you are all a nice bunch, so thank you for taking the time in helping me out with the parts. The problem with what you suggested early Gary was that cam was not on summit website...if I try and order something on my own (not through my friend shop) I'll end up paying more than double the advertised price... so if a cam is 180 dollars, I'll probably end up paying 300....it's hit and miss when it gets to customs here. So.. now reading your latest post, and bear in mind I can change the carb to something else as carbs over here there's loads. oh and you just posted again!! ahaha while I'm writing this.. ok.. so I can get a larger carb - meaning I can get the level 3 crower. however machining my heads might be a bit too much to chew... So probably best go with the crower 2? no machining and can keep stock pushrods and lifters? pushrods size as per Larry post 3/8 diameter and 9.650 length right? Not sure about converting to the ones that oil through the pushrod, do I need to match lifters and springs for that? or stock type will do? And the crower 2 will need springs to match is that correct? I'll try to find those on crower website and see if they have in summit The timing chain comment Larry posted, about only have 1 keyway...... is this one better? https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-3128/overview/make/buick thanks
Double roller might have some clearance issues with the fuel pump arm---but I'm not sure on this, so others will have to confirm. It's only a 3 keyway gear, meaning it will advance or retard by only 4* in either direction--not sure if this would give you a better configuration than simply a single keyway gear? Summit doesn't list the Sealed Power (Federal Mogul) CS647 cam, that one will be obtained from Northern Autoparts, and possibly other places such as Ebay or some such. Summit lists the Melling cams for OEM replacement, and there are two to choose from. The smaller one (part number sbc-11) would put too much cylinder pressure on your rings (even more so than the Crower level 2 cam) with its super early valve closing timing. This cam is better suited for low compression engines less than 8:1... The larger Melling cam is similar to the Federal Mogul cam, and so if you opt for OEM replacement, I'd recommend it. Part number is sbc-5. With over 9:1 static compression, you'll be in a safe zone for normal fuel and your rings will thank you. You could take that adapter off and get a nice rebuilt Quadrajet from one of the guys here on the boards who sell them. If you get a larger carb, I'd recommend going this path. It'll bolt right up to your intake manifold, as this was the original carburetor used on the engine you have now.
As far as Qjets go--there are two sizes: the 750 CFM and 800 CFM. These were nominal ratings, meaning 'by name' only. They can flow even more than this with some work, but usually flow less in stock form, especially on smaller engines. Why? Because of the inherent design of the engineering, which allowed the secondaries to feed the engine only what it needs. This means the Buick 350 typically only draws about 600-650 CFM through one, providing the engine is in stock form. Better flowing engines will draw harder and require more CFM, which the Qjet can accommodate. GM used the Qjets on Buick v6's all the way up to Buick 455's. The guys here on the boards can tune it to your application so it's basically a bolt-on and go, with maybe a few minor adjustments for fine-tuning.
oh no.. now you have thrown more cams in the mix lol I was kind of set on that Crower 2 from earlier, being a bit over stock. As I dont even know if the cam I have now is damaged or not, the reason to change the cam was to put something different than stock seeing as i'm opening it up. If I was to get that crower 2, then all I need is lifters and pushrods with same specs as stock and springs that will work with the crower 2 right? sorry, can't reply much more, almost 1am here, have to wake up for work in about 5h.... getting a Qjet from the US is not an option, the weight of it would cost a fortune in postage...plus the tax when it gets here might try find one here, there's a few Buicks about, maybe someone who swapped it for a Holley or something..
I feel ya on the 'gotta go for now' thing. It's about time for me to shackle myself to the corporate machine. Crower level 2 would be good, yes. I'd recommend the cam saver lifters for added insurance on wear. They're supposed to add 20%-30% more oil to the lifter face and cam lobes, while only costing you 1-2 PSI of oil pressure from the bleed-off. Stock pushrods should be fine, but as was mentioned earlier, it's best to check the length to make sure. Stock springs would work too, providing they're new springs and set a little tighter than stock specs. The valvetrain should remain stable up to 4,000-4,500 RPM with that cam, which the level 2 cam peters out by then anyway. It'll work great with the carb you have now.
Thanks Gary, back online again.. Are these the lifters you mention? cam saver lifters? - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cro-66050x3-16 Pushrods question: On the pushrods front, I gave one to my friend at the shop to measure and he just called me, they are 1/4 dia and roughly 9.5, so probably are the stock 9.650 as he measured with a tape measure. but isn't the stock diameter 3/8? also in terms of pushrods, I was thinking of holding off in ordering them, first get all the rest bolted on and then use one of my friend adjustable pushrods to set it up, check length and then order a set based on that measurement. does that sounds like a good plan? or is there a different way to check length? Crower 50258 276hdp - https://www.crower.com/camshafts/buick-350-compu-pro-hydraulic-cam-276-hdp.html Lifters Crower camsavers - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cro-66050x3-16 To be confirmed Timing chain - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/clo-c-3003k/overview/make/buick Springs - Can't find them... any idea? cant even find stock ones! Pushrods - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/lun-6112-16/overview/ ( These are stock, 3/8 dia 9.650 length with 5/16 top and bottom tip, is this correct as being stock?) Engine gasket kit - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/fel-fs8264pt-1/overview/make/buick plus these ones, as the kit says it doesnt come with the ones below: Valve cover gaskets - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/fel-vs50034c/overview/make/buick Valley Pan gasket - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/fel-ms96006/overview/make/buick The only other thing is the oil pump parts, which I don't know if I need or not as don't have an oil pressure gauge, but for the price they cost and seeing as the engine is apart, might as well do it? and that will have to come from TA. thanks!
Those lifters are not the type he's referring too. The type that is needed are specific to 68 and 69 buick 350s. They do not have oiling holes in the plunger because they use solid pushrods. Normal engines with the cam in the block oil through the lifters and the pushrods. Buicks did not until 1970. You need solid pushrods (no oiling hole) and the associated lifters. I've found a part number, L896, that seems to be for the EngineTech brand lifters that are the correct ones https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...0.Xl896+lifter.TRS0&_nkw=l896+lifter&_sacat=0 It's either these (or similar), or TA lifters. No one to my knowledge sells the lifters. they are physically taller, and lack the oil hole so any lifters you find off summit, or jegs, or whatever won't work. It sucks, but that's the way it is. And I've bought that gasket set before, it does come with VC gaskets. I don't know why it says it doesn't. Anywho, you don't need that one anyway. This one is cheaper, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-260-1012/overview/make/buick. To my knowledge, any Buick gasket kit, the full kit, does not NOT come with valve cover gaskets. that's like not coming with a thermostat gasket or an oil pan gasket. It's a weird thing, and I'm sure the listing is just mislabed as a "No". One last thing, while you're tearing into the motor, just go ahead and pull it out, and change the rear main seal to one from a ford 460. Any 460 will work. Don't use the rope rear mains.
There are two part numbers I found for Valve springs from comp, one are these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-910-16/overview/ and the other are these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-942-16/overview/ Keep in mind the 942-16 springs have a 41lb less spring rate, which means they are "softer" than the 910-16 springs. Grab yourself a set of digital calipers and measure how big your springs are. I don't know the maximum size, but either of these should work. As for pushrods, I haven't found any that meet all the specifications in length, diameter, construction, etc. You might have to get all adjustables. TA is the only place I've found that sells the stock solid pushrods.
