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Hesitation/flooding?

Discussion in 'The Venerable Q-Jet' started by mechacode, Apr 12, 2005.

  1. mechacode

    mechacode Well-Known Member

    Start out at anything under 1/2 throttle and it's fine, get past that and there's a problem (other than lack of traction), it'll take off like, well, you've just hit on the gas but then it'll hesitate, no backfiring or anything, just sputtering for a second or two and then take off like a bat outta hell. Passenger bank smells like it's running rich as well. :confused:
     
    mechacode, Apr 12, 2005
    #1
  2. Schurkey

    Schurkey Silver Level contributor

    1. Not enough accelerator pump shot?

    2. Idle mixture screws need to be adjusted?
     
    Schurkey, Apr 12, 2005
    #2
  3. Nicholas Sloop

    Nicholas Sloop '08 GS Nats BSA runner up

    Sounds like the secondaries openning too fast. Check the choke pull-off (the little vacuum valve on the front pass side of the carb) and the adjustment of the secondary air valve spring. LOTS of threads here on doing both.
     
    Nicholas Sloop, Apr 12, 2005
    #3
  4. LouGrimaldi

    LouGrimaldi Well-Known Member

    I vote for the secondary air valve (Dam) spring. Mine did the same thing, I think thats how they got the name "Quadrabog". I adjusted that and made the problem go away. It was alot of trial and error on the adjustment and I think I would have been better off getting a new spring for the air dam but it works the way it is. If you need help adjusting this write back and we can talk you through it.
    Good Luck, Lou
     
    LouGrimaldi, Apr 14, 2005
    #4
  5. mechacode

    mechacode Well-Known Member

    My knowledge of quads ends with the idle adjust screw. If you've got the time to write that up, I can definately take the time to read it.
     
    mechacode, Apr 14, 2005
    #5
  6. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Cody,
    Most bogs are caused by a failure of the vacuum break on the front passenger side of the carb. It has a link to the secondary airvalves. When the vacuum break is operating correctly, it pulls in when the engine is running, and holds the airvalves closed. So, if you can push the airvalves open with the engine running, either the vacuum break is defective, or the linkage to the airvalves is disconnected/missing.

    With the engine off, you should be able to push the airvalves in with your finger. When you pull your finger away, the airvalves should spring back to a closed position. You can adjust the spring tension on the airvalves. Increasing the tension delays the opening. On the passenger side of the carb, the airvalve shaft is slotted, so that you can turn it with a screwdiver. undeneath, is a set screw(small allen head) The idea is to hold the shaft with a screwdriver, and loosen the set screw. After that, slowly turn the screwdriver until you feel no tension on the shaft. Then turn in the opposite direction to increase tension. I believe the stock setting is 1/2-3/4 turn from 0 tension. Set it there, and test drive the car. You can increase the tension up to 1 turn total, but it shouldn't need that much. Hope that helps.
     
    LARRY70GS, Apr 14, 2005
    #6
  7. LouGrimaldi

    LouGrimaldi Well-Known Member

    Adjusting air valve

    Cody, Larry did the hard part (writing the procedure). I do it a little different in that I don't back the adjusting screw off. I just tighten it a pencil width and try that. Picture attached. Adjust only one pencil width at a time as it makes a huge difference. Make sure the car is warmed up good before you try it out. Also it is real easy to strip the threads under the allen cap screw. Make your adjustments with the engine off.
    Good Luck,
    Lou
     

    Attached Files:

    LouGrimaldi, Apr 14, 2005
    #7
  8. mechacode

    mechacode Well-Known Member

    Thanks guys. :TU: It hasn't happened since.
     
    mechacode, Apr 16, 2005
    #8

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