Looking for some input on what grit hone to use to deglaze my cylinder walls. Cylinders still have the crosshatch marks from original build over 20yrs ago.I am going to be using plasma molly rings again as they seemed to work well. Chris
I only use these: https://www.amazon.ca/Research-FLEX...ocphy=9001413&hvtargid=pla-905362376394&psc=1
They just take alot of cleaning to get the grit back out........plan an spending a few hrs to get it out
I would take this opportunity to get your cylinder walls dead on if you want the longest life out of those new rings not to mention the most power and the least amount of oil contamination. If a shop for instance measures some slight taper or out of round in locations there honing machine can dwell more in those areas and minimize these defects. it would be worth it if the you had a shop do the hone work if they had a boring plate to use. if you just want to fly by the seat of your pants then get a 320 grit flex hone. what is your piston to wall clearance now and are your pistons cast or forged? here is David Vizards method for final prepping cylinder walls that I have gone over to on my last 5 motor builds with great results.
Only by honing it bigger than it already is. If piston-to-wall clearance isn't an issue, get the torque-plate installed, and open 'em up. Then buy pistons to suit. That's essentially what I did on my beater-truck engine. A couple strokes with 240-grit, a few strokes with 320 grit, scrub vertically with Scotchbrite. Clean, clean, clean. Re-used 7 of the old pistons--no torque plate, just freshened what was there. One cylinder bored to correct rust damage, one piston purchased. No fancy powder on the cylinder walls, though.
