How to install distributor in right direction?

I tried using a remote/bump starter today on my '71 GS 350, but it wouldn't work.

On the starter, I clipped one lead of the remote trigger to the Battery + lug, the other to a yellow wire lug marked 'S". Nothing happened, just a clicking sound coming from inside the car very time I squeezed the trigger.

Does the key need to be forward for the remote starter to work (I tried this, still didn't work)?

Thanks

 

Thanks for the illustration (location has been updated).

If I can't get this car going after this level of detailed instruction, I should just hang it up and get a Prius.

Wish me luck.

 

Following your instructions, I tried to use the remote starter today. No luck.

I was under the car with a drop light and a small inspection mirror, and there is no way I can get in there to attach the alligator clips of the remote to the purple 'S' wire. There's just not enough room for me to get my hand in there and move around.

I could attach a lead to the Batt + lug, but not the purple 'S' lug.

I have a stock 350, stock exhaust manifolds, and heat shield above the starter.

What do you suggest? How do you attach your remote?

Thanks

 

I thought the remote starter would be helpful for my recent distributor install adventure.

I work alone, so I don't have the advantage of an assistant to bump the starter.

Can you think of any repairs where having the remote starter would be needed?

I do like your idea of attaching another wire, though.

Thanks

 

Don't connect at the starter. Trace the purple wire up to the firewall area, where it's accessible. Pierce the insulation as suggested earlier, or splice in a separate wire for connection to the remote starter switch with the purple wire properly weather-protected. Either way works.

That'd be the "S" terminal, not the "R" terminal, for use with a remote starter switch.

 

I removed #1 sparkplug. Hold my thumb over the hole. My friend pulsed the ignition key.
Didn’t feel much until my thumb blew away and this is where the harmonic balancer line stopped;



Took my wrench, turned it cornerwise back to ~4.5 or 5* BTC.
Removed distributor cap and the rotor pointed almost right, turned the distributor to fully line up with #1 terminal. Locked it.
Tested (ashamed about going nuts on the gas pedal):
[B]https://vimeo.com/187866042[/B]

Realized that battery was low. Recharged it for some hours. Tested one more time:

[video=vimeo;187866085]https://vimeo.com/187866085[/video]

Started to sneeze and backfire.

Checked the new blaster 2 coil with the ignition on. Primary: 0,8 Secondary: 5.07. Which I suppose is good. I have the softest springs in the distributor. New NGK 6630, almost new MSD wires. Plugged vacuum.

I remember rechecking the dots on the timing chain gears several times, didn't turn anything when it was chainless. And that #1 cylinder rockers pointed up on TDC. It should be right… Or?

 

I'd suggest turning the engine backwards to 15 degrees BTC, then forward to 10--12 BTC. Turning it backwards farther than you really want assures that when you turn it forward again, all the timing chain slack ends up on the same side of the timing gears that it does when the engine is running.

Again, you want the rotor to point towards the terminal for #1 plug wire, BUT you need to fine-tune the distributor housing position so that the trigger device (reluctor and pickup coil), IS SET TO FIRE THE COIL--they should be exactly aligned. That's the step you missed.

Didn't watch the videos, but perhaps the plugs are fouled? It doesn't matter if you have spark to the spark plugs if the spark doesn't jump the gap.

The USUAL procedure is for the guy installing the timing chain to set the dots on the gears so the crank gear is "up" and the cam gear is "down". This is firing position for #6, not #1. Both rocker arms for #1 will appear to be "up", but in fact the camshaft is on overlap with both valves just slightly open--unless the hydraulic lifters have bled down which is entirely possible. If you were dropping the distributor in at this point, you'd align the rotor to #6 spark plug wire terminal.

With the dot on the crank gear "up" AND the dot on the cam gear "up", #1 is in firing position and the valves should be closed. Align the rotor to #1.

As long as the chain was installed properly with the dots truly aligned, none of this should matter since you were feeling for compression pressure with your thumb. #1 should have been on compression. Ideally, you'd have tested the camshaft-to-crankshaft synchronization (cam timing or cam degreeing) during the timing chain installation, using a dial indicator and a degree wheel, adjusting as required.

To recap: Turn the crankshaft in the normal direction to about 10 degrees BTC of #1 compression stroke, or your choice of initial timing advance. Rough-time distributor by pointing rotor at #1 spark plug wire terminal. Fine-adjustment of distributor position by aligning pickup coil to reluctor. Tighten distributor hold-down. Assemble distributor cap, plug wires, etc.

With practice, you should be within a couple of degrees of your desired initial timing. Engine should start readily. Use timing light to verify timing adjustment.

 

Sounds logic. Will try.

Not sure how i do this on my MSD? Should i make one gear line up with the magnet and at the same time having the rotor pointing to #1 terminal?
And even reinstall it one cam-gear different to manage trigger and rotor match the terminal?
Or could I just take a chance and hand turning it during trying to start it, make it run then fine tune with timing light, or would i just fool myself by doing this?

#1 sparkplug is very black with soot now. I guess I should clean them someway.

Thanks

 

Exactly right. The tooth exactly aligns with the pickup coil, with the rotor pointing generally if not exactly toward #1. The Ford/MSD system is a little harder to see than the GM HEI system, where the reluctor and the pickup coil have a pointy shape that's easier to see when they're exactly aligned. The HEI will provide some tactile feedback when aligned, the magnets pull at the points--easy to feel when the distributor is out of the vehicle, harder to feel when installed. I bet the MSD/Ford system is about the same.

A propane torch works great. Hold the plug-wire end of the plug with a vice-grip or pliers. Turn the firing end of the plug in the propane flame, just outside of the blue cone. Yellow flame means carbon is burning off. Orange flame means you're done, or close to done. The side electrode and some of the center electrode will glow red- or orange-hot. The porcelain should be white as new when you're done. The plug will be very hot, don't get burned.

 

Me and my friend tried again today.

• Pulsed the ignition key.
• Thumb blew away.
• Backed it to 20* BTC something then clockwise back to 8* BTC.
• Checked the distributor which rotor was pointing to #1 terminal and tooth was in center of magnet without doing anything.
• Burned the #1 sparkplug clean, didn’t do the others.
• Tested to start, same problem. Had to give full gas to get some sign of starting. But still failing.
• Checked the carb; the float and power piston and think they both are ok.. Skeptic about the electric choke, not closing so much. Looking at videos now to learn how it works.

• Not sure if we rechecked the sparkplug wires before or after this, but I might have mixed two.
• So we rewired all of them and rechecked them 3 times.
• Tried to start, didn’t help.
• Loosed the distributor and tried to turn it at the same time I tried to start it.
• Exploded down thru the exhaustsystem, and up the carb. And started to sneeze fuel several times thru its overflow pipe.
• Gave up.

My friend recognized the problem from when he had his carburetor and distributor rebuild. But we couldn’t remember how we fixed it. Hi commented “does it really get fuel?”. And I’m thinking that I maybe should replace these NGK to original AcDelco sparkplugs with smaller gap.

 

• Used a propane torch and cleaned all the spark plugs. Some were light black (but not gray), some black and wet like oil.
• Checked one sparkplug gap; still .44”
• Set it on 8* with stretched chain, magnet in center.
• Full battery.
• One touch on gas pedal to activate choke.
• Tried to start, forgot the coil wire.
• Installed coil wire.
• Tried to start, no direct sign of firing.
• Gave some gas, reacted some.
• Gave full gas and the rpm rised and sounded like something was happening.
• But gave up. Relesed the gaspedal and the carburetor sneezed out a lot of gas.

:ball:

 

^^^^ That's my first guess. I might have expected 180-off to result in some backfires, though. That or the camshaft is out-of-time, which might be confirmed by abnormally-low readings on all cylinders when performing a cranking compression test.

 

FYI

That's not close to where number one should be on the cap.

As you look at the distributor from over the LH fender, number one is at 10 o'clock.


The vacuum can should point roughly toward the water pump centerline.

While it's true it will run in any position, as long as the wires are on in the proper location and order, what I describe is how the factory did it.

Picture a delco points distributor.. number one terminal is the first one clockwise from the points adjustment window.

To insure the engine is lined up on number one firing position, easiest way to do it on an assembled engine in the car is remove number one spark plug, partially restrict the hole (your finger or a tape ball, and turn the engine over until compression blows out the plug hole.. .then look at the balancer timing marks to align it.



JW

 

C-yber T
love tbe avatar , fits perfectly after seeing ur troubles, never give up man , you may be just starting your climb up to mechanic greatness,
My first car it took me two weeks to get my timing chain aligned rite , was a 1968 Pontiac Grand Prix , and now I've given u advice on almost the same thing. I would check ur mufflers , good backfires are known for bursting mufflers at the seems, I am an expert at that .