1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

I rebuilt my 2v. one question

Discussion in 'Other' started by ceas350, May 1, 2010.

  1. ceas350

    ceas350 "THE BURNER"

    Rebuilt it on my own first time,and it run a bit better... more power. When I opened the top there was a small bb under the accelorator pump spring, but none in the bowl where the brass mesh filter goes. Will it run any better if I put one in? If need be I can show pics of what I'm talking about, as I have a nother 2v that is built just like the one on my car:idea2:
     
  2. ceas350

    ceas350 "THE BURNER"

    the arrow in the pic points to the area that I am talkingt about
     
  3. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

  4. ceas350

    ceas350 "THE BURNER"

    That's the problem its not. Aparently they used the same walker kit that I did, but the screen that goes in that spot had big holes in it. I ended up using the screen from the 2v that I got from a 2v I got from a friend. The carb wasn't rebuilt to its best. I replaced all gaskets, the screen, small bb that goes under accelorator pump spring, took out the jets and poured the best cleaner ...b-12 into the bowl and into where the jets go so it would free up the crud that resided there. Now the carb runs a heck of a lot better than before. I thought I had the engine runnin smooth before... man I its smooth like its not even on now. So I guess I did it right.:TU:
     
  5. ceas350

    ceas350 "THE BURNER"

    Btw... I see what your talkin about. That ball was there and I replaced it.
     
  6. ceas350

    ceas350 "THE BURNER"

    I will load the pic when I get back home. I'm gone fishin wit bill dance today... lol
     
  7. ceas350

    ceas350 "THE BURNER"

    ok let me try this again. the arrow in the picture is pointing to what I am talking about.
     

    Attached Files:

    • 085.jpg
      085.jpg
      File size:
      53.5 KB
      Views:
      16
  8. Kirk

    Kirk Well-Known Member

    That hole with the arrow in the picture is the inlet for the accelerator pump. No check-ball goes in that hole.

    The accelerator pump well (the one with the big spring in your picture) has a similar hole in the bottom. That hole should have a check-ball. The big-spring keeps the check-ball in place (as well as providing the pump return). The check-ball allows fuel to be sucked into the well, and prevents fuel from being pushed back into the float bowl during pump discharge.

    The only other check-ball is located under the venturi cluster. This thread should help:

    How to rebuild a Rochester 2GV Carburetor - a pictoral essay...
     
  9. ceas350

    ceas350 "THE BURNER"

    Thanks:TU: I did refer to the thread you spoke of. I'm thinking of tinkering with the jets to see if i can get it to run a little more rich. what would the next two sizes up be?
     

Share This Page