Before trying the choke stuff, be sure of whether it is flooding or starving for fuel. Try pushing down on the linkage at the choke blade with the engine off, and the throttle partially open, to allow the movement of the fast idle. Then gently push the choke pull off back, into the pulled in position. Check the choke blade position at that point. It should be open about 1/4" between the blade and the air horn. This is a good starting point. Then, without touching the throttle, start the engine, looking for about 2200 rpm. It will be higher when warm than when cold, so don't turn it down without trying it cold. Tapping the throttle should unload the choke, providing the warm idle, which should be between 550 and 650 in drive, which ever works best for your application. With a stock convertor, anything above 650 in drive will make the engine sing in neutral or park. I would go for between 550 and 600 in drive. Adjust the idle mixture for best idle in park, making adjustments to the idle speed to compensate for the rise as you approach the ideal setting. When you reach the highest idle obtainable, gently turn the screws back in to obtain a 10 rpm drop per screw. This will provide the best lean idle, and it is what the factory designed into the carb. The TCS is a switch, controlled by the trans, which blocks vacuum advance in first or second, and allows it in high. This will adversely affect driveability in the lower gears, so go directly from the carb to the distributor, for maximum driveability. I do not advocate the bypassing of emission controls, but on a vehicle this old, emissions are secondary to maximum performance. It will also directly affect fuel economy. Let me know... Ray
A quick update the carb still acts a little sluggish @ idle -800 rpm and in gear , it drops down to 600-650-rpms but wants to stall. Once warmed up it is fine. I was a surprised that once I put the vac line back on the rpms jumped to 800 to 1100 rpm and timing went from 10 degrees up to 23 degrees. Is this because the mechanical is starting to come in ? It's all in at 1700 rpm? I do have Accel adjustable can but haven't gotten it put on along with the screw trick that was written about in "power tuning" to limit mechanical advance. Thanks guys, Barry
Barry, Maybe we can help eachother. I am having some of the same idle problems you are. long story short, I have rebuilt my carberator, checked all vacuum lines, new fuel filter, fresh gas and "heat" to get rid of any water in the lines. I STILL have trouble at idle. if I pu tmy hand over the primaries when it's runnig rough at idle <about 700rpm in drive right now> the engine smooths right out. By doing this I am richening the mixture by allowing less air to combine with the fuel. I can't figure out if I still have a carberator idle system problem within the carb, I have heard of maybe a intake manifold leak. I just can't seem to pin it down. As soon as I get off idle it runs like a TOP, no hesitation,no bogging down??? If you or anybody else has any suggestions that would be great!!! Thanks, ~Brian 69' Buick GS California 350 4bbl Q-Jet
